
Quite a good night. Weather still mild, and Judy is about to come round with provisions. Dot is getting up. I woke at 5.30am with a book in my hand and the light on: clearly I’d fallen asleep while reading and not moved for six hours. Still worried about insurance, obviously.
Continuing with the story of our holiday pre-disaster….
Tuesday 13th: We all walked round Loch Muick, which I measured as 9 miles. Quite surprised that I could still walk that far. Struggled towards the end. Weather mixed – warm sun, cold wind, showers. Water high: had to cross stream on logs at other end of loch and encountered midges. Aargh! We had trouble parking initially: it was a tight squeeze, and I was a bit nervous, but the car was OK. The others went out for coffee immediately afterwards, but I had a bath. Had trouble keeping awake. After Roger made us omelettes, we watched Big Fish, which I thought was an excellent film. Managed 20,000 steps today.
Wednesday 14th: Very cool start, with light rain after breakfast, which we had in Rocksalt and Snails (eggs benedict). Dot and I bought warm tops on our way home after buying meat from butcher’s. Drove to Crathie Kirk and called at the Information Centre, where the Canadians ran amok, then on to Braemar, where we viewed the new, improved Fife Arms. Impressive, but our beloved tea and sandwich lounge is no more. Then on to the new Games Pavilion – made the mistake of letting Roger go first, and they missed the turn; so we had to chase them. Nice scone and tea. Then to Linn of Quoich and more midges. Still worth seeing, though. The main bridge seems to be in the process of demolition. Drove back via the Lochnagar loop, then called at station info in Ballater. Had an Angus burger from the butcher’s. Excellent. Watched Breakfast at Tiffany’s, which I thought was very well done, despite reservations elsewhere.

Thursday 15th: Eventful day, and a much nicer one for weather, though still on the chilly side. Plenty of blue sky, but windy in late afternoon. Visited new shop in high street on way to RS&S, which has become customary for breakfast. Croissant this time. On way back looked at plans for Ella’s house – affordable housing, it seems. Then drove to Glen Callater and walked to the loch. I stopped halfway, meaning to go back, but changed my mind and continued slowly. Climbed up to get view of loch, but failed. Eventually went all the way. On the way back, Dot fell over as others got way ahead. Very nice family (two girls, one boy) came to our aid, but Dot was mainly shocked and able to walk slowly back to the car. Got petrol on way back to Ballater. Brilliant meal at the Rothesay Arms, but a bad night.
Friday 16th: Feeling of approaching doom (oddly – I wrote this at the time). Showery day, rather windy, and forecast of high winds for our ferry crossing tomorrow. Breakfast at RS&S, of course, then Dot bought skirt at Byzantium. Drove to Knock gallery, then Lochnagar distillery, both rather briefly. Dot bought Balmoral napkins as usual at little shop by gate. Then the McEwan gallery, which was very good, and the log cabin, where I think I saw some kites over a nearby wood. Packed and watched TV (Lethal Weapon). Dot has bad bruising on her leg.
Saturday 17th: Drove from Ballater to the Orkney islands. Breakfast at RS&S, then bought reading glasses from optician’s because my main ones were broken (don’t know how): £12.50. Gave Murrays 20-minute start while going to the loo at the station, then overtook them after Bridge at Brown. Good journey north. Stopped at River Bothy, Berriedale, which was amazing. Had delicious burger. In good time for ferry at Gill’s Bay. Mainly dry with plenty of sun, though heavy rain early on over the Lecht. Dry crossing, but rain as we reached our hotel (the Lynnfield) at Kirkwall. Brilliant room. Had whisky, then watched MOTD. NCFC beat Newcastle 3-1.

Sunday 18th: Mainly pleasant weather – quite warm but with a couple of heavy showers. Drove to the Italian Chapel and Churchill Barriers, then to Goulp of Deerness – a sea cave/chasm. Lovely cliffs and a visitor centre with loos in the middle of nowhere. Unmanned and undamaged. Walked on cliffs then back to airport to check it out. Then drove past Stones of Stenness to the Ring of Brodgar – walked round it. On to Yesnaby, where we made the mistake of not walking to a point where we could see the sea stack, because it looked like rain. and Dot was very tired. We meant to come back… Still, the cliffs were spectacular. Called at Maeshowe visitor centre on way back to hotel. At hotel had bath, slept a bit, got organised. Scallops and chips.
Monday 19th: Extraordinary day. Got up very early to pack up car with stuff we “would’t need” in Westray. Snatched a little breakfast and drove to airport. Amazingly basic plane to Westray. Seven passengers. Picked up there and taken to B&B, but then had to leave bags and spent rest of the day (till 4) walking round the island. Dropped at Castle, then walked to beach and by loop back to village of Pierowall. Had sandwich and delicious cake (raspberry and rhubarb) in cafe (soup for Dot), then wandered round the village (church, hotel etc) till time to walk back to B&B – a mile up the hill. Let into our room and met the other person staying there – Jackie, from Kent. She had booked for meal at hotel in village but couldn’t face two-mile walk there and back. Had sleep after cup of tea and then walked in for nice meal – and back afterwards. Very, very tired. Weather quite cold and showery. Fortunately we had brought the right clothes.

Tuesday 20th: Started grey with cold rain on the cliffs, where we saw baby fulmer. But the weather improved and eventually it was quite warm. We were on an all-day trek with Westraak – aka Karen and Andy. Eight of us in addition to them: Jackie and us; two sisters; and two other sisters and the husband of one of them. All except Jackie seemed older than us. (J has had womb cancer and lost her husband to prostate cancer two years ago.) Started with coffee and cakes at K and A’s house. Excellent. Then to cliffs in the north-west, where we saw the fulmer but it was wet and very cold. Later highlight was Noup Head lighthouse and gannets; the castle; church; airport (where we witnessed a 1:09 flight in its entirety from Papa Westray); an excellent gallery, where we bought a print; the heritage centre; lunch at their house (excellent again ); pier; then south view of a deserted hamlet. Had chat with Jackie back at the house, and the two of us went down to the hotel again for an evening meal (lamb for me, fish combination for Dot). Angus from the heritage centre served us again. Recognised a few faces. Back up the hill – beautiful evening. Exhausted.
Wednesday 21st: Lovely day till rain came in the evening. Breakfast at 8,, and Lynn (B&B wife who had been away) took us to the airport. Completed the shortest hop to Papa Westray (1 min 50 sec) and thence to Kirkwall, where we got a certificate, had tea at the airport, retrieved our car and drove to Kirkwall. Walked briefly, saw cathedral and called at the museum, where we saw a film of the world war one Scapa Flow scupperings. On to Visitor Information and then decided Kirkwall was not for us (too full) and drove by the lower road to Maeshowe, where we booked a visit for the next day. On to Stromness, which we loved. Had sandwich in tea room (erudite gentlemen at next table discussing Celtic church, among other things). Back to car to drive to Skara Brae where we utilised our free pass. Interesting, but conjecture outweighed fact heavily. Then visited Skaill House, which was quite interesting. Tried to phone B&B, but unsuccessfully, as her line was down (as re discovered later). Castlehill was a bit tricky to find, and owner Denise a bit different – just how different we discovered the following day. She did us a meal later, but not before we’d fallen asleep. Nice wine.
The events of the following fateful day are set out in an earlier post. Judy has brought food, stayed for cup of tea, and Dot is now listening to football.



