Dot takes advantage of the Ontario sunshine to secure her tan, despite the accompanying snow
Another stunning Ontario day, with snow melting fast. We’ve just about packed, and Dot has gone upstairs for a shower after coffee in the kitchen with Barb. She even managed it out on to the deck in her nightdress without any obvious signs of distress. Checked in last night online after another beautiful meal, this time salmon, potatoes, mushrooms plus. Delicious. White and red wine, which meant I barely stayed awake through Scoop, our last movie. Not Meg Ryan this time, but Scarlet Johansson and Woody Allen. May have seen some of it before, but it was very funny, and I can never remember films anyway. Wish I could. Likewise books.
Heard that Tim M has found new accommodation, which is very cheering: he’s been putting up with aggro for too long. And Vicky M has sold her house, though it seems there’s some doubt where she’s moving to. Possibly Old Costessey. Things are changing.
Still relaxing. Had a lovely meal last night and then watched French Kiss, another Meg Ryan film and a very funny and satisfying one. Today I am taking it easy again after a delicious Lighthouse-style breakfast from Barb, following which she and Dot departed alarmingly for Toronto with shopping in mind. Roger and I stayed here. I have done some packing and checked e-mails, etc. Nothing from British Airways yet, but at least they’re not on strike. Lovely as it is here, I think I’ve reached the stage when I shall be glad to be home, which should be about noon on Friday (or 7am Toronto time).
Have read a few books – two by Randy Wayne White which I think are not quite as good as his earlier stuff, plus Blink, by Malcolm Gladwell, which is excellent. Hard to describe what it’s about: maybe the way we perceive things is as close as you could get in a sentence. Have also read Gawain and the Green Knight, which against all the odds was quite compelling – and very pleasing too, though not exactly politically correct. Plus a book by Roger’s brother John called If we only knew, which I found very moving. It’s broadly about our relationship to God, but consists mostly of people’s surprising and humanly inexplicable experiences, often in Eastern Europe, where he used to work. I’m thinking of getting it for our Tuesday Group. Have written the makings of a few poems, but only two of them are anywhere near complete. Nevertheless, I’m very hopeful. Have just been watching Crossroads – the DVD of a guitar festival organised by Eric Clapton. Some excellent stuff on there, including a number of the greats.
Unbelievably, it’s warm enough here in Cedar Mills for Dot to sunbathe on the deck, with a nice snowy background while drinking a mimosa. We’ve just been for a “half-hour walk” (B Murray) around local roads and have also toured the garden, which is quite a jaunt in itself. Yes, we’re back in Canada, relaxing. The past few days went something like this.
Evening of Thursday, March 4
Because of language difficulties and different customs, found ourselves in an embarrassing situation at Traders, where we had booked in and (apparently) arranged to meet the Murrays’ French friends (Valerie & Co), should they care to drop by. They did drop by, and were under the impression that Roger had booked a table for nine so that we could all eat together. Happily the restaurant was able to accommodate us all, but of course our own meals were already ordered, and it all got a bit chaotic. Still, it was a fun evening, and we continued the trend of chaos in France by watching Day of the Jackal when we got home.
Friday, March 5
Our final full day in Florida, which dawned sunny and apparently warmer. We went for breakfast at the Lighthouse, and then Barbara and Roger decided to walk to Redfish Pass. It then emerged that it wasn’t as warm as it seemed, and we were glad we decided not to join them. Even though they went out by the road through the resort so that the wind was behind them on their way back along the beach, they still got very cold. Dot and I meanwhile visited the dock briefly before going up to Starbucks, where we had drinks out of the wind, then went into a gallery, where we met photographer Ted Myerson, who was part of an arts collective. He was interested in my poetry, and I gave him my website addresses. Saw Barb and Roger walking past, and Roger came in and talked to Ted about photography. Meanwhile Dot bought a kind of bracelet made locally. Back at the house, Dot decided to go into the pool while Roger and I had a brief game of tennis. Played much better than last time. Roger and Barb went up to Mucky Duck to order meal for 5pm, but Dot and I got there late, so we eventually had the meal shortly before 6pm. Window seat, fantastic sunset, fish and chips. What more could you ask for? Certainly not broccoli. After packing for the journey, we watched You’ve Got Mail, starring Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks. A feel-good movie.
W Hotel in Atlanta, Georgia, with its unique shot at a toilet/shower room/basin combination. At least, I hope it's unique
Saturday, March 6
The journey home began in bright sunshine, which was to last for just about the whole three days. We left at 9.15, and I did my only driving stint from near Gainesville, Florida, across the border and well into Georgia. It then emerged that Roger actually preferred driving, and I didn’t mind either way, so I became a passenger. Pretty uneventful drive, with constant temperature – only dropped below 10C as we got to the W hotel after dark. Roger and Barb hated the hotel, but Dot and I thought it was just trying to be too avant garde and get as much of your money as it could, which I suppose is not good. Had room service – an excellent chicken club sandwich with egg and avocado, but lukewarm chips. Dot’s caesar salad was on the vinegary side. But tea and coffee were first class, and so was the bed. The bathroom was peculiar, to say the least, a sliding screen leaving you in full view of the rest of the room while you were on the loo. There was no bath and a kamikaze shower. OK, I can see what they meant, especially as Roger arrived with a bad headache. Had a very small breakfast before leaving, because they charged excessively for that too.
Highway 20: a beautiful mistake
Sunday, March 7
Around freezing at 9am, but soon warmed up, and we were around 15C for much of the day. Went wrong out of Atlanta and found ourselves heading for the Carolinas on I-85. Made the mistake of pointing this out, so we missed the chance of adding two more states to to our list. Instead detoured across country on Highway 20, which as it approached the I-75 proved to be a beautiful route. Very enjoyable, though it cost us about an hour and a half. It’s those pesky traffic lights. Dot started taking pictures of the many churches that dotted the roadside. Back on the I-75 we listened to a couple of Garrison Keiller tracks as we entered Tennessee – “The Radio Announcer”, which was hysterical, and “The Young Lutheran’s Guide to the Orchestra”, which was more gently funny. Reached Cincinnati Cheesecake Factory about 6.20 and had about 20 minutes to wait for a table. Very nice steak. Waitress a bit dozy, but quite sweet. Only a few miles from there to our LivInn hotel at Sharonville, where we had a goodnight’s sleep in a basic but comfortable room with a bathroom that was quite separate and could not be seen from the bed.
Monday, March 8
Last day on the road. Again sunny and warmish. North on the I-75 through Dayton, where it was 8C, and the temperature contrarily increased the nearer we got to Canada, despite occasional snow at the side of the road. Clear run to Detroit, where we missed the bridge turning because of a blocked ramp and so experienced the tunnel, thanks to directions from a large black man who pulled up conveniently alongside at traffic lights and gave us directions. Equally genial was the female border guard, who chatted to us for a while and then waved us through. Dot and Barb were desperate for a coffee, so we stopped at a Tim Horton’s. Needless to say the Starbucks they were looking for was 50 yards further down the road. Still, I like TH. While I was in the restroom Dot tried to send my doughnut back, but she retrieved it when I told her it wasn’t a mistake. From there a long run on the 401 – everything looking so much more cared for than in desolate Ohio, but with the disadvantage of very few rest stop options. In the end one of our party got desperate a few miles before our turn-off, and we detoured to a MacDonalds on a side road, where we ruthlessly made use of their restroom without even holding the burger. From there it was only about 20 minutes to Chrissy’s house in Waterloo, where we had superb roast chicken with yorkshire pudding and great mashed potato! Chrissy on good form, and the children keen to see their grandparents – even keener to see their presents. Chatted to JD quite a bit, and we all got on really well. Very spacious and well located house. Glad we were able to stop. Back in car about 9pm for 90-minute drive back to Cedar Mills / Palgrave by back roads, this time intentionally. By the time we got there and unpacked I had pretty much had it and collapsed into bed. At one point during that short trip the temperature dropped to -1C, but it was back up to 3C by the time we arrived. When Roger turned the house water on there was a slight leak, but he fixed it by tightening a nut.
Thursday afternoon: sunny but with a cold wind. Temperature 14C – checked with David, and it’s 6C in Bedfordshire, but with an even higher wind chill than here on Captiva! After a leisurely breakfast today we drove over to Sanibel to visit the high spots of the island, using the term “high” in a strictly non-geographical sense. Started by returning our videos (watched Girl in a Cafe last night, followed by A Perfect Murder on videotape – supplied by the house), then called at an art gallery on the way to Tarpon Bay, where the wind was whistling across. We’d taken a trip from there three years ago when it was hot, and even then it was chilly on the water, so we decided not to risk hypothermia. Instead I bought a pair of binoculars – good value at $20.
Back to Periwinkle Place, then on to Dixie Boulevard, which turns into a dirt road round by the bay. Beautiful spot, though no real way of getting at the beach. We parked illegally for a few minutes and found the skeleton of a snake, as well as some dead “no parking”signs. Also saw some ospreys flying quite close up: amazing birds. Amazing also to think how rare they are in the UK. On to the Sanibel Marina and then the Lighthouse. The pier was very cold indeed but just round the corner out of the wind it was pleasant, and there were people sitting on the beach. A couple of dolphins were having lots of fun right up to the beach, and I may have got a couple of decent pictures, or I may not. Dolphins are very quick. My first memory card ran out here. I have started using the other one, but have found that it still has pictures from Switzerland on it, so I’m a bit worried how many more I can take. May have to do some deleting.
After a tour down Gulf Road to the residential part of the island, and taking in the Sanctuary (ditto) we returned home. Barb and Roger are now flaked out on the sofa, and Dot is reading on the balcony upstairs.
Yesterday was overcast and even cooler than today. In the evening it could even be said to be very cold, and when we broached the beach for the sunset we had to wear anoraks and coats. Unheard-of here. We had started the day with breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe and driven on to Fort Myers, where we found one of the dullest malls in captivity. Even Barb and Dot were unimpressed, and I think I had the only book in the entire place,so I read some of it. We returned to the island and found another bookshop, which was excellent. I bought a couple. On to Periwinkle Way and a bit more shopping. Indulged in another black cherry ice cream in a waffle cone and managed to negotiate it successfully.
Back on Captiva I walked over to the dock while the girls went up to Starbucks. It was very cold there too, but there were some dolphins interacting with pelicans quite close in. Seemed at first that the pelicans were attacking the dolphins (which seems a bit foolhardy), but we decided they were just interested in the same fish. Later Roger and I fetched desserts from the Bubble Room for everyone except me. I had cheese, bread and crisps, which was much more fun. Oh yes it was.
Well past the halfway point how, and into some warm weather unmarred by chilly blasts. Also we all seem to be well. It’s Tuesday, and Barb, Roger and Dot have been absent since 11am, apparently calling at Starbucks on the way to repeating my Redfish Pass walk. Poured with rain first thing, but once that moved on the air was warm, and the breeze likewise. Would have gone on the walk too, but my metabolism isn’t suited to early-morning walks, and it turned out to be a wise decision. Instead went to dock and beach, checking on reported high tide two foot above normal. Eventually realised that this would only bring the water halfway up the beach anyway, so plumped for the dock, where the water was certainly the highest I’ve seen it, but not in any danger of coming over the top. The only problem water-wise was the deep puddle left by the rain across the entrance to Sunset Captiva, but I scrambled round that on the way out and returned by a slightly circuitous route involving the Chapel by the Sea. Incidentally have finally discovered the right address for this place, courtesy of a letter from the US Census this morning. Obviously I can’t reveal what it is.
Saturday was the low point for Roger and Barb: both were flaked out on the sofa. In the end Dot and I got a sandwich from the deli, and brought in a Bubble Room desert for Roger. We watched the Olympic curling final, won by Canada against Norway in pretty convincing fashion.
On Sunday Roger was still pretty bad, so the three of us still on our feet walked down the beach to Tween Waters, at which point I returned for the car while they continued to Blind Pass. I picked them up there and we continued on to Sanibel, where we bought some medicine for Roger and some ice creams for us – superb black cherry in waffle cone for me. Later Dot and I walked over to the dock and on to the gift shop and then Starbucks, where I had a caramel cider drink, which would have been nice if it had been about a quarter of the sweetness. While there we witnessed (or to be more accurate, I heard) a car park collision. Just dents, but as one guy put it, “that’s the end of our day”. When we left (after I had posted cards round the corner) the police/security people still hadn’t arrived. Later we returned to the deli by car with Barb to get a sandwich. Watched The Human Stain (on DVD) and Proof (on TV). Both were good films, but in the first Nicole Kidman was too young and pretty. and in the second Gwyneth Paltrow was too wimpishly annoying. This was a warmer day, but still with a sharp wind.
Yesterday was a big improvement, both in health and weather. There was still a touch of cold breeze, but hardly enough to notice. We started out at the Lighthouse Cafe, the did the tour of the Ding Darling nature reserve. Not quite as much wildlife activity as last time, and no sign of alligators, but still an impressive place. More bird activity later on the dock, where a fisherman was inundated by pelicans, a heron and an egret while gutting his catch. Finished the first Randy Wayne White book, which was good but not one of his best, then ended the day at the Mucky Duck. We had a 75-minute wait which turned out to be very pleasant – chatted to two women from Minnesota – then had a cheeseburger. Afterwards went to video shop on Sanibel and then watched Amelia, which was quite good but not riveting.
The other three have just got back, and Barb, Dot and I are about to drive over to Sanibel. Roger is resting – sensible man.
At the end of the day on Thursday Dot and I went up to the Bubble Room for desserts, and we then all watched 3.10 to Yuma, which is as good as I remembered. Makes you think a lot about why people behave as they do, and what really corrupts.
Yesterday Roger was feeling really bad, and today he’s worse, and staying in bed. Barb not too good either, but she and Dot went shopping yesterday as the weather got warmer. Dot bought a really nice skirt and some tops. Meanwhile I was doing a lot of walking. Started at the dock while there was still a chill in the air and saw three or four dolphins about 100 yards away. Watched closely by pelican, which seemed to think I had food. Then Dot and Barb dropped me off at Tween Waters on their way to the shops, and I walked back along the beach, taking in the chapel and cemetery (not morbid: both are picturesque). After a quick lunch of biscuits, cheese and blueberries, I embarked on a hike up to Redfish Pass, the most northerly point of Captiva. Outward part by beach, then back through the South Seas resort that annoyingly owns all the tip of the island. The last stretch is a quite wild bit of road between the bay and the Gulf, which I had forgotten was so long: mildly concerned that a large alligator might leap out of a roadside pond, or a deadly snake lurk in the grass. But no: in fact snakes and alligators rarely make an appearance, though I’m told there are lots of them. Passed hardly any pedestrians in final mile and a half. Whole walk (about six miles) took a couple of hours. In the evening we went to Doc Ford’s Sanibel Grille and Bar, which is a restaurant owned by R W White, the top local thriller writer whose main character is (of course) Doc Ford. The books are good, and so was the food. I had a delicious large rib-eye steak with mashed potato-and-parmesan and other goodies. Plus a couple of Tropical Breezes, which are rum-based cocktails. Amazing. Back at the house we watched the Olympics – mainly curling, which the Canadian women should have won, but didn’t.
Now it’s pouring with rain, and it will probably continue most of the day. Seems quiet without Roger, and there is only a very remote chance of Dot making it downstairs before noon, though to be fair she made me a cup of tea earlier. Barb is tackling bookfuls of bridge problems, Dot is reading a brilliant book called Blink, and I am roughly halfway through the compelling Black Widow, by the aforementioned RWW. If I am not mistaken, we have reached the halfway point of our holiday.
It’s now Thursday at 4pm. An odd few days. I was laid aside by a bad cold / sinus infection for a couple of days, and others did their own thing, which as far as I can make out was mostly shopping or eating. As I came round groggily, full of Benedryl and antibiotics, Dot went down with a cold. Since she is more resilient than me, she kept going, and last night we drove to the Mucky Duck for a meal. Normally this would be a ridiculous thing to do, since it is only a couple of hundred yards away, but the weather was so bad – cold and windy – that we bet on few people being about and the car park having vacancies. Both proved true, and they also started serving early. Had a grouper with some french sauce, preceded by nice little salad. Too much wine, unfortunately, which made my battered head swim. Still, we sat through two films: the appalling Cape of Good Hope and the rather good Definitely, Maybe. Earlier, somewhere in the mists of time, we saw Gran Torino, which was excellent. I also bought Randy Wayne White’s latest two Florida thrillers, which I’m looking forward to reading.
Today it emerged that both Roger and Barbara are going down with colds. As I write Barb is lying on the sofa, flaked out and coughing intermittently. Roger has a sore throat. Am I to blame for all this, gentlemen of the jury? Yes, probably; definitely; maybe. Despite our various states of health we drove up for breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe, which is rather like driving from Norwich to Blakeney for breakfast – about 45 minutes each way. Still they do a delicious breakfast: my first time this year – everyone else had already been twice. Afterwards we got gas and various drugstore items, then called in at a very large house on Captiva Road that had an Open Day (it was for sale: $4.5 million). Pretty impressive. I think I could stand living there.
Dot and I walked up to the post office to send postcards, and on the way back Dot purchased shorts and trousers. It is bitterly cold, with the wind biting and everyone saying Florida is never, ever like this. The beach is impossible, so we tried the dock, but it was really too cold there too. Apparently even the manatee have moved elsewhere, though the pelicans persist. Really graceful birds in flight – breathtaking because it’s so unexpected.
We’re now safely in Captiva, at 15098 Urchin Court, the place we stayed last time. Very comfortable and relaxing – at least I would be comfortable and relaxed if the cold I’ve been fighting off since the plane flight hadn’t eventually broken through. I was coughing a lot in the night, and I’ve persuaded the others to go off to breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe and leave me here. The temperature is warm, but not as warm as last time.
The journeying has gone well. We left six days ago at 10am in much different weather conditions: around freezing, but not unpleasant. Took the train to Liverpool Street and then decided on a cab to Paddington, which was the right decision, though it cost $20 (that’s pounds, but I’ll sort it out eventually). The Heathrow express was brilliant, landing us very quickly at Terminal 5, with which we were extremely impressed. Dropped bags and got through Security with no trouble. The flight was uneventful, though a bit chilly, and the food was surprisingly good. Curry for main meal, egg and spring onion sandwiches just before Toronto.
Met by strange waving couple who turned out to be Barb and Roger. They drove us back to Palmer Circle. Not much snow on the roads, but a nice aesthetic covering there. To bed after small supper at 10pm (3am UK). Not a good night – in fact sleeping proved to be quite a problem for several days – but went into Bolton with Roger in the morning. Sunglasses had got broken on the way, so replaced them with $9 pair from Walmart, much to Barb’s disgust. She and Dot were elsewhere. Not quite sure exactly where that was. In the evening we watched Mr & Mrs Smith, which was clever, funny and pseudo-violent. Just managed to stay awake for denouement.
Next day was just above freezing, and there some early swirls of snow. Drove into Toronto for lunch at Serra (goat’s cheese followed by pasta special) and then to the King Tut exhibition. Pretty impressive, especially the huge statue of Akhanatem, his father. Wrote poem about it. Three most ridiculous items in King Tut shop: 1 Tutchoo tissue box cover; 2 inflatable mummy; 3 baseball. Two most ridiculous rules: Roger had to go back and queue up to get the tickets redated, which then proved to be unnecessary; we weren’t allowed to sit on the steps. No, really. Back home through rush-hour traffic, then packed ready for 9am start the next day (Thurs 18th).
Left almost on the dot. Weather dull, but it brightened up as we neared Detroit. Stopped at Windsor for quick refreshment, then were held up for 40 minutes or so at border, but everyone was very pleasant. Then headed south through Michigan and Ohio to Cincinnati, where we stopped for a delicious lunch at the Cheesecake Factory. On to Williamsburg, Kentucky where we arrived after 10pm at the Columbia Inn. Splendid setting, but the room was a bit noisy (facing highway), and they seemed a bit understaffed. In America, everyone assumes you drink coffee.
Getting a bit warmer as we headed south again on the I75 through mountainous country (the Columbian Plateau), with spectacular icicles on the rocks, but not much snow. Lunch at the Buckhead Diner in Atlanta, Georgia: again superb food (veal meatloaf and mashed potatoes) and service. Very long last leg south after this. Barbara drove out of Atlanta in heavy traffic, and I did a three-hour stint taking us from south of Macon into Florida – the last part of it in the dark. Roger then took over, and we arrived in Sarasota after 11pm. Superb hotel – room was a suite, and it was quiet. And I could get a cup of tea.
Better night, and after a leisurely breakfast we left just after 10am. Temperature really warm now, and we watched it creep up to a maximum of 24C as we neared Captiva. Dropped away from that slightly, but very pleasant as we arrived at the house around 1am, but found it wasn’t quite ready for us. So went up to Starbucks and did a very little shopping. House excellent as expected: unpacked and Barb and Dot disappeared down the beach. Roger and I went to American Realty to get an extra key, then walked along the beach and over to the dock. In the evening we went to Traders, and I had the filet mignon special, which was special. Bought a baseball cap and called at video shop on way home. Watched State of Play, interrupted by frequent coughing from me. Had very disturbed night.
All ready for departure and about to go to bed. I did write the piece for the Drivers’ Alliance, and I did give Sam some comments on his novel. My mouth is still not what I would call perfect – probably still feeling battered and a bit painful off and on. I am quietly confident that it will calm down. We have the currency and just about everything else needful: in the end I bought the tennis shoes here and found my sandals, which I’d forgotten about. Checked in online this afternoon, so what can possibly go wrong?
Had a Valentine’s Day meal this evening at Prezzo’s, which was very pleasant, as was our meal with the Higbees on Friday evening. Tim M came round after church today to receive instructions, and we’ve given him a guest account on Dot’s computer so that he can get his e-mails. Canada, here we come.
Castle Meadow, Norwich, today: most of the city's buses seem to be sheltering from the snow and have achieved an almost total gridlock.
Mouth has been thoroughly battered on the right-hand side, and I have now taken possession of a temporary crown at a knockdown price of just under £300. If you think that’s expensive, wait till you hear the cost of the actual crown, which will be inserted on my return from Canada. Or rather, don’t wait, because I shan’t tell you. Lying with your mouth open for over an hour is not a lot of fun, especially when your total tooth area is being drastically reduced. I exaggerate slightly, but I can still feel the after-effects, which is not surprising. No doubt it will soon calm down. I did manage to eat an evening meal afterwards – one of Dot’s specials for the Tuesday Group. A reduced group on this occasion: only five of us. It’s nice to have a smaller group sometimes.
Small blizzard at Paston: the garden of Dayspring
Have just returned from a visit to Lucy’s. She is in the last lot of chemotherapy and feeling good at the moment. Our arrival there coincided with a small blizzard. Several hefty snow showers today, but the only lasting effect is on our road, which is very slippery. However, we did make it down and up again, using the “traction control off” technique. Lucy’s father is not at all well.
Before going north I went into the city to get my second lot of currency – Canadian dollars this time – and got myself a pair of waterproof walking boots from Venture Sports on Westlegate. Wore them today. Quite pleased with them: they’re Scarpa – waterproof with Vibram soles. Bought them after consulting with Roger on what footwear would be needed. May buy some white running shoes while I’m over there. After my first (diagnosis) visit to the dentist yesterday morning did a longish walk round Lakenham (Brian Avenue, Hall Road, City Road, Meadowbrook Close) visiting houses I or relatives once lived in. Meanwhile Dot was in the city with Sue Eagle.
Have been asked to write a piece for the Drivers’ Alliance website. Must give it some thought soon. Am also due to look at some writing my nephew Sam has done and give him feedback.
