Tag Archives: captiva

Sunny Days for warm Captiva audience

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Sunset on our final evening, on the beach near the Mucky Duck
Sunset on our final evening, on the beach near the Mucky Duck

And here we are back again in England. The air is much cooler, but on the plus side, we are on the ground, and not squeezed into an aeroplane designed for midgets. Captiva Island and the surrounding weather were in fine form, but the travel was bit of a nightmare. It all went something like this.

Thursday, April 10

Got to Caddington between 3 and 4pm. Obtained a takeaway Indian from Spice Caddington, who were pleasant and obliging. The food was nice too. I wrote a favourable review of them for Trip Advisor.

Friday, April 11

Left Caddington at 7.25am and reached Heathrow about 8.30. Checked in at about 9 and went through Security without much problem, although it required a little undressing. Patronised Starbucks. Plane left more than an hour late, and I would like to say it was a pleasant journey, but it wasn’t. It was 9½ hours. The food was quite palatable, but the promised help  from BA ground staff to get throughout Customs quickly and on to our connection wasn’t. In fact it was non-existent, and we languished in a passport queue until even a last-minute push from an airport man didn’t help us make it.

American Airlines were very helpful and booked us on a flight at 8.20am the next day, then rechecked our cases and sent us on to British Airways, who accepted responsibility and booked us into the Hyatt Regency, with vouchers for free beds, dinner and breakfast. The hotel was good, as was the food, but I didn’t get much sleep. Again. Rang car company at Fort Myers to say we wouldn’t be picking our car up till the next day, and the hotel there saying we needed to cancel. They seemed mystified that I’d bothered to tell them, given that they were going to charge me anyway.

Doit looking good as always
Dot looking good as always

Saturday, April 12

Woke early, of course, and had a good breakfast at 6am, catching the 6.40 shuttle to the airport. I noticed from a board at the hotel that the departure gate – and indeed terminal – had been changed from D35 to C6, so we went to the right place. The check-inwas straightforward, and the plane left on time. The flight seemed very short (about 2¼ hours) and there were no customs at Fort Myers. We were met by the Murrays at the bottom of an elevator.

Had trouble finding the hire car, because it was accessed via shuttle from a booth round the back of the car park. Which surrounds worrying, but in fact turned out very well. Chrissy came with me, David, Amy and Sophie and in fact did all the driving. Dot went with Roger and Barbara and the boys, and in fact they had to wait so long in the queue for their Budget car (ours was Europcar) that we got to the house on Captiva first.

The house, Sunny Days, Andy Rosse Lane, was first-class – especially our bedroom, which had a king-sized hot tub as well as a super-shower. And a very, very large bed. Attended Mucky Duck for 5pm meal. Afterwards I took the two girls back to the house so that they could access the pool very quickly. After the others arrived I soon dozed off and on being roused, decided to go to bed. Shrimp cocktail quite good; grouper café de paris middling.

David, Chrissy and the girls in the pool
David, Chrissy and the girls in the pool

Sunday, April 13

Woke at 7am and took a long time to surface while the others went to Starbucks in relays. Had bath and felt rather down. Dot brought me a cake back, and Barbara went for a long beach walk. Dot and I went to the dock for while (breezy but warm), then to shop. The rest is a bit of a blur, but we went to the Bubble Room for lunch, and at some point Dot and I took Oliver to the dock, then to Urchin Court, Sunset Captiva, returning via the beach. Played a couple of games of pool with Roger, then gave way to Seth. Went to dock again, and Dot eventually joined me briefly. Full moon. Children getting along well, both in the pool and electronically.

Monday, April 14

Another bad night. Kept dreaming about dreadful journeys of one kind or another. All went to the Lighthouse Cafe for breakfast, which was as tasty as I remembered it, but smaller. Attempted to park at the lighthouse afterwards, but the park there was full. Sadly, we were destined never to make it. Pity, because I think the children would have loved it there.

Drove back to Captiva, stopping at Baileys on the way for provisions. Afterwards I did the long walk up to Redfish Pass, hoping to catch up with Dot and Barbara, but because of a misunderstanding they were waiting for me at Starbucks. Roger, who had been walking with me, decided to return and called in at Starbucks on the way, thus revealing that I had gone on and was ahead by some way. I, of course, did not know this and continued – pausing only to obtain a bottle of water from Joe, who drew up the beach in a boat.

I reached the pass about half an hour ahead of the girls and waited on a seat, and then on a second seat, because I wasn’t sure which one they would plump for (or had plumped for, if they were ahead of me). Was about to give them up when they arrived, and we walked back down through the harbour and the South Seas resort, spotting a couple of dolphins and a manatee. Sat in harbour area while girls went in a shop, and was feeling very hot; so I was glad of Joe’s water.

Later I beat Roger 5-2 at pool and photographed sunset from the roof of the house. But not simultaneously.

White pelicans in the Ding Darling nature reserve
White pelicans in the Ding Darling nature reserve

Tuesday, April 15

Up earlier. Drove to Ding Darling Nature Reserve and saw white pelicans, but we only stopped twice and didn’t go for a walk, which was a bit disappointing, especially as we then proceeded to Traders and had to kill time in shop before lunch. Had a decent Angus steakburger, while the others ventured more exotic stuff. Couldn’t manage a dessert. Drove to Periwinkle Place and some shopping was done.

Eventually all the males drove home, and all the females did more shopping. Dot bought some blue shorts and several tops. When the females returned, Barbara, Dot, Roger and I went over to the dock and saw manatees and a dolphins, as well as ospreys catching fish. An expected thunderstorm did not materialise. I beat Oliver narrowly at table tennis and Roger convincingly at pool.

Wednesday, April 16

Dull to start with, but warmer later. Didn’t wake till after 9 – found tea from David on bedside tables, and neither of us had heard him bring it in. Dot and I bought postcards and walked up to Starbucks with Barbara. Wrote them there while she walked back. Dot and I returned by beach, by which time Mike Decker had arrived from Tampa and gone out to lunch with David and Chrissy at Mucky Duck. Wrote three poems while waiting for them to come back, then had chat. After he left, we all went to Il Cielo for an excellent meal. Very tired afterwards.

Some concern at the Lighthouse Cafe
Some concern at the Lighthouse Cafe

Thursday, April 17

Awful night. Really bad stomach – thought I was going to be sick, then acid reflux and neck pains. Stayed at home while others went to Lighthouse Cafe for breakfast, but recovered later and went to Starbucks with Dot. Had iced tea, and then we both bought hats in Regatta, the store next door.

Went to the dock a couple of times – saw a dolphin on my own, then returned with Dot. Dark clouds over Pine Island. Sudden wind as walked back, and in the evening a bit of rain as the four of us drove to Il Cielo again. Had mussels followed by lamb. Drove back to house via Gulf Road and Rabbit. Tired again – went to bed quite early.

Friday, April 18

Another bad night, though not as bad as the previous one. Both up before 9am to find house apparently empty, so walked up to Starbucks and back by beach. Returned to find that Seth had been in the house alone, but by this time the others had returned.

Later Dot and I walked up to the deli near Starbucks to get some food, and we walked to the dock afterwards, arriving back at the house to meet the others at 11.30 – about the only example of a joint arrangement in the entire week that worked and did not involve cars. Tried to book the banana boat for the children, but the owner said a fierce electrical storm was on the way and the sea was getting rough. All on the beach till past 1pm, and the sea was indeed quite choppy, but the storm “the size of Florida” never materialised, although I suppose it was out there somewhere.

Played Roger at table tennis and lost 3-0; then at pool, at which I won by about 4-1. Had shower. Even pool makes you quite sticky. All went to Mucky Duck for final meal. I had clam chowder (good) and fish and chips (average), plus two pints of excellent Yuenglings  beer from Pennsylvania, recommended by the waitress. The Key West beer I had at Traders was good too.

Packed, then went to beach for sunset shots after I happened to notice a promising sky. Took pic of couple from Atlanta. He said he played golf in Scotland, so he was probably famous.

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Oliver on the boys’ table at the Lighthouse Cafe

Saturday, April 19

Another very bad night. Got up at 6.40 to find rain had not materialised as threatened, and it was bright and warm. Finished the packing, and we returned in the cars as we’d arrived – Chrissy driving ours. Followed Roger and a map and found the car place off Treeline easily. The transfer went like clockwork and we reached the check-in via shuttle well before the others. I phoned Dot and we joined forces.

We had planned to have a coffee or breakfast together, but it turned out we were flying from separate concourses with separate Security entrances, so we had to say goodbye there. After Security we got some food and saw the Murrays’ Air Canada flight take off as we were boarding. Our plane left at 12.30 and we arrived in Dallas around 2.30 (+ 1 hour). Spent most of afternoon at gate D14 after a shuttle ride and a nice lunch of wraps.

Much better experience of Dallas Fort Worth airport this time. Our bags went straight through, and all we had to do was let the gate attendants see our Fort Myers boarding passes. The flight to Heathrow left on time and arrived on time after a bit of circling. I got two or three hours’ sleep, and our arrival time of 9.35 (as advertised) meant the flight was exactly nine hours.

Downsides of journey: I sat on middle seat next to a stranger on both flights, the food on the BA flight was awful and two loos were out of order. Dot had brief attack of diarrhoea, and the sound on the movie was so bad I had to turn it off. On the plus side, I had bought a Randy Wayne White book in Captiva and was able to read some of it; and on the flight from Fort Myers I was able to talk to my grandson.

The elusive manatee
The elusive manatee

Sunday, April 20

We got through passport control and customs quite easily and boarded our bus after a brief wait. It was raining and chilly. Our car was where we’d left it, and we threw ourselves in it and I drove back to Caddington. Again the roads were not bad, and we were home by 11.30 after dropping Dot off to buy food in the village (and then returning for her). After a bite, David and the children were in touch with Chrissy and hers on FaceTime. It all seemed very familiar. We left about 1.30 and were home well before 4pm, listening to Norwich lose 2-3 to Liverpool on the way. Everything was normal, and inNorwich it was dry and much warmer.

We unpacked and had egg and chips and watched some television. Phil came round with an Easter card from Joe and Ilona. Not sure what else happened. It was a bit of a blur again. Watched a bit of the grand prix, then later some more television and went to be very early. Slept a long time.

Sunbathing in the snow

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In the Mucky Duck

Unbelievably, it’s warm enough here in Cedar Mills for Dot to sunbathe on the deck, with a nice snowy background while drinking a mimosa. We’ve just been for a “half-hour walk” (B Murray) around local roads and have also toured the garden, which is quite a jaunt in itself. Yes, we’re back in Canada, relaxing. The past few days went something like this.

Evening of Thursday, March 4

Because of language difficulties and different customs, found ourselves in an embarrassing situation at Traders, where we had booked in and (apparently) arranged to meet the Murrays’ French friends (Valerie & Co), should they care to drop by. They did drop by, and were under the impression that Roger had booked a table for nine so that we could all eat together. Happily the restaurant was able to accommodate us all, but of course our own meals were already ordered, and it all got  a bit chaotic. Still, it was a fun evening, and we continued the trend of chaos in France by watching Day of the Jackal when we got home.

Friday, March 5

Our final full day in Florida, which dawned sunny and apparently warmer. We went for breakfast at the Lighthouse, and then Barbara and Roger decided to walk to Redfish Pass. It then emerged that it wasn’t as warm as it seemed, and we were glad we decided not to join them. Even though they went out by the road through the resort so that the wind was behind them on their way back along the beach, they still got very cold. Dot and I meanwhile visited the dock briefly before going up to Starbucks, where we had drinks out of the wind, then went into a gallery, where we met photographer Ted Myerson, who was part of an arts collective. He was interested in my poetry, and I gave him my website addresses. Saw Barb and Roger walking past, and Roger came in and talked to Ted about photography. Meanwhile Dot bought a kind of bracelet made locally. Back at the house, Dot decided to go into the pool while Roger and I had a brief game of tennis. Played much better than last time. Roger and Barb went up to Mucky Duck to order meal for 5pm, but Dot and I got there late, so we eventually had the meal shortly before 6pm. Window seat, fantastic sunset, fish and chips. What more could you ask for? Certainly not broccoli. After packing for the journey, we watched You’ve Got Mail, starring Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks. A feel-good movie.

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W Hotel in Atlanta, Georgia, with its unique shot at a toilet/shower room/basin combination. At least, I hope it's unique

Saturday, March 6

The journey home began in bright sunshine, which was to last for just about the whole three days. We left at 9.15, and I did my only driving stint from near Gainesville, Florida, across the border and well into Georgia. It then emerged that Roger actually preferred driving, and I didn’t mind either way, so I became a passenger. Pretty uneventful drive, with constant temperature – only dropped below 10C as we got to the W hotel after dark. Roger and Barb hated the hotel, but Dot and I thought it was just trying to be too avant garde and get as much of your money as it could, which I suppose is not good. Had room service – an excellent chicken club sandwich with egg and avocado, but lukewarm chips. Dot’s caesar salad was on the vinegary side. But tea and coffee were first class, and so was the bed. The bathroom was peculiar, to say the least, a sliding screen leaving you in full view of the rest of the room while you were on the loo. There was no bath and a kamikaze shower. OK, I can see what they meant, especially as Roger arrived with a bad headache. Had a very small breakfast before leaving, because they charged excessively for that too.

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Highway 20: a beautiful mistake

Sunday, March 7

Around freezing at 9am, but soon warmed up, and we were around 15C for much of the day. Went wrong out of Atlanta and found ourselves heading for the Carolinas on I-85. Made the mistake of pointing this out, so we missed the chance of adding two more states to to our list. Instead detoured across country on Highway 20, which as it approached the I-75 proved to be a beautiful route. Very enjoyable, though it cost us about an hour and a half. It’s those pesky traffic lights. Dot started taking pictures of the many churches that dotted the roadside. Back on the I-75 we listened to a couple of Garrison Keiller tracks as we entered Tennessee – “The Radio Announcer”, which was hysterical, and “The Young Lutheran’s Guide to the Orchestra”, which was more gently funny. Reached Cincinnati Cheesecake Factory about 6.20 and had about 20 minutes to wait for a table. Very nice steak. Waitress a bit dozy, but quite sweet. Only a few miles from there to our LivInn hotel at Sharonville, where we had a goodnight’s sleep in a basic but comfortable room with a bathroom that was quite separate and could not be seen from the bed.

Monday, March 8

Last day on the road. Again sunny and warmish. North on the I-75 through Dayton, where it was 8C, and the temperature contrarily increased the nearer we got to Canada, despite occasional snow at the side of the road. Clear run to Detroit, where we missed the bridge turning because of a blocked ramp and so experienced the tunnel, thanks to directions from a large black man who pulled up conveniently alongside at traffic lights and gave us directions. Equally genial was the female border guard, who chatted to us for a while and then waved us through. Dot and Barb were desperate for a coffee, so we stopped at a Tim Horton’s. Needless to say the Starbucks they were looking for was 50 yards further down the road. Still, I like TH. While I was in the restroom Dot tried to send my doughnut back, but she retrieved it when I told her it wasn’t a mistake. From there a long run on the 401 – everything looking so much more cared for than in desolate Ohio, but with the disadvantage of very few rest stop options. In the end one of our party got desperate a few miles before our turn-off, and we detoured to a MacDonalds on a side road, where we ruthlessly made use of their restroom without even holding the burger. From there it was only about 20 minutes to Chrissy’s house in Waterloo, where we had superb roast chicken with yorkshire pudding and great mashed potato! Chrissy on good form, and the children keen to see their grandparents – even keener to see their presents. Chatted to JD quite a bit, and we all got on really well. Very spacious and well located house. Glad we were able to stop. Back in car about 9pm for 90-minute drive back to Cedar Mills / Palgrave by back roads, this time intentionally. By the time we got there and unpacked I had pretty much had it and collapsed into bed. At one point during that short trip the temperature dropped to -1C, but it was back up to 3C by the time we arrived. When Roger turned the house water on there was a slight leak, but he fixed it by tightening a nut.

Wind chill factor

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One of a number of ospreys on the islands

Thursday afternoon: sunny but with a cold wind. Temperature 14C – checked with David, and it’s 6C in Bedfordshire, but with an even higher wind chill than here on Captiva! After a leisurely breakfast today we drove over to Sanibel to visit the high spots of the island, using the term “high” in a strictly non-geographical sense. Started by returning our videos (watched Girl in a Cafe last night, followed by A Perfect Murder on videotape – supplied by the house), then called at an art gallery on the way to Tarpon Bay, where the wind was whistling across. We’d taken a trip from there three years ago when it was hot, and even then it was chilly on the water, so we decided not to risk hypothermia. Instead I bought a pair of binoculars – good value at $20.

Back to Periwinkle Place, then on to Dixie Boulevard, which turns into a dirt road round by the bay. Beautiful spot, though no real way of getting at the beach. We parked illegally for a few minutes and found the skeleton of a snake, as well as some dead “no parking”signs. Also saw some ospreys flying quite close up: amazing birds. Amazing also to think how rare they are in the UK. On to the Sanibel Marina and then the Lighthouse. The pier was very cold indeed but just round the corner out of the wind it was pleasant, and there were people sitting on the beach. A couple of dolphins were having lots of fun right up to the beach, and I may have got a couple of decent pictures, or I may not. Dolphins are very quick. My first memory card ran out here. I have started using the other one, but have found that it still has pictures from Switzerland on it, so I’m a bit worried how many more I can take. May have to do some deleting.

After a tour down Gulf Road to the residential part of the island, and taking in the Sanctuary (ditto) we returned home. Barb and Roger are now flaked out on the sofa, and Dot is reading on the balcony upstairs.

Yesterday was overcast and even cooler than today. In the evening it could even be said to be very cold, and when we broached the beach for the sunset we had to wear anoraks and coats. Unheard-of here. We had started the day with breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe and driven on to Fort Myers, where we found one of the dullest malls in captivity. Even Barb and Dot were unimpressed, and I think I had the only book in the entire place,so I read some of it. We returned to the island and found another bookshop, which was excellent. I bought a couple. On to Periwinkle Way and a bit more shopping. Indulged in another black cherry ice cream in a waffle cone and managed to negotiate it successfully.

Back on Captiva I walked over to the dock while the girls went up to Starbucks. It was very cold there too, but there were some dolphins interacting with pelicans quite close in. Seemed at first that the pelicans were attacking the dolphins (which seems a bit foolhardy), but we decided they were just interested in the same fish. Later Roger and I fetched desserts from the Bubble Room for everyone except me. I had cheese, bread and crisps, which was much more fun. Oh yes it was.

Circuitous routes

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In the Ding Darling nature reserve

Well past the halfway point how, and into some warm weather unmarred by chilly blasts. Also we all seem to be well. It’s Tuesday, and Barb, Roger and Dot have been absent since 11am, apparently calling at Starbucks on the way to repeating my Redfish Pass walk. Poured with rain first thing, but once that moved on the air was warm, and the breeze likewise. Would have gone on the walk too, but my metabolism isn’t suited to early-morning walks, and it turned out to be a wise decision. Instead went to dock and beach, checking on reported high tide two foot above normal. Eventually realised that this would only bring the water halfway up the beach anyway, so plumped for the dock, where the water was certainly the highest I’ve seen it, but not in any danger of coming over the top. The only problem water-wise was the deep puddle left by the rain across the entrance to Sunset Captiva, but I scrambled round that on the way out and returned by a slightly circuitous route involving the Chapel by the Sea. Incidentally have finally discovered the right address for this place, courtesy of a letter from the US Census this morning. Obviously I can’t reveal what it is.

Saturday was the low point for Roger and Barb: both were flaked out on the sofa. In the end Dot and I got a sandwich from the deli, and brought in a Bubble Room desert for Roger. We watched the Olympic curling final, won by Canada against Norway in pretty convincing fashion.

On Sunday Roger was still pretty bad, so the three of us still on our feet walked down the beach to Tween Waters, at which point  I returned for the car while they continued to Blind Pass. I picked them up there and we continued on to Sanibel, where we bought some medicine for Roger and some ice creams for us – superb black cherry in waffle cone for me. Later Dot and I walked over to the dock and on to the gift shop and then Starbucks, where I had a caramel cider drink, which would have been nice if it had been about a quarter of the sweetness. While there we witnessed (or to be more accurate, I heard) a car park collision. Just dents, but as one guy put it, “that’s the end of our day”. When we left (after I had posted cards round the corner) the police/security people still hadn’t arrived. Later we returned to the deli by car with Barb to get a sandwich. Watched The Human Stain (on DVD) and Proof (on TV). Both were good films, but in the first Nicole Kidman was too young and pretty. and in the second Gwyneth Paltrow was too wimpishly annoying. This was a warmer day, but still with a sharp wind.

Yesterday was a big improvement, both in health and weather. There was still a touch of cold breeze, but hardly enough to notice. We started out at the Lighthouse Cafe, the did the tour of the Ding Darling nature reserve. Not quite as much wildlife activity as last time, and no sign of alligators, but still an impressive place. More bird activity later on the dock, where a fisherman was inundated by pelicans, a heron and an egret while gutting his catch. Finished the first Randy Wayne White book, which was good but not one of his best, then ended the day at the Mucky Duck. We had a 75-minute wait which turned out to be very pleasant – chatted to two women from Minnesota – then had a cheeseburger. Afterwards went to video shop on Sanibel and then watched Amelia, which was quite good but not riveting.

The other three have just got back, and Barb, Dot and I are about to drive over to Sanibel. Roger is resting – sensible man.

Battle of Redfish Pass

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Typically colourful seating on the beach

At the end of the day on Thursday Dot and I went up to the Bubble Room for desserts, and we then all watched 3.10 to Yuma, which is as good as I remembered. Makes you think a lot about why people behave as they do, and what really corrupts.

Yesterday Roger was feeling really bad, and today he’s worse, and staying in bed. Barb not too good either, but she and Dot went shopping yesterday as the weather got warmer. Dot bought a really nice skirt and some tops. Meanwhile I was doing a lot of walking. Started at the dock while there was still a chill in the air and saw three or four dolphins about 100 yards away. Watched closely by pelican, which seemed to think I had food. Then Dot and Barb dropped me off at Tween Waters on their way to the shops, and I walked back along the beach, taking in the chapel and cemetery (not morbid: both are picturesque). After a quick lunch of biscuits, cheese and blueberries, I embarked on a hike up to Redfish Pass, the most northerly point of Captiva. Outward part by beach, then back through the South Seas resort that annoyingly owns all the tip of the island. The last stretch is a quite wild bit of road between the bay and the Gulf, which I had forgotten was so long: mildly concerned that a large alligator might leap out of a roadside pond, or a deadly snake lurk in the grass. But no: in fact snakes and alligators rarely make an appearance, though I’m told there are lots of them. Passed hardly any pedestrians in final mile and a half. Whole walk (about six miles) took a couple of hours. In the evening we went to Doc Ford’s Sanibel Grille and Bar, which is a restaurant owned by R W White, the top local thriller writer whose main character is (of course) Doc Ford. The books are good, and so was the food. I had a delicious large rib-eye steak with mashed potato-and-parmesan and other goodies. Plus a couple of Tropical Breezes, which are rum-based cocktails. Amazing. Back at the house we watched the Olympics – mainly curling, which the Canadian women should have won, but didn’t.

Now it’s pouring with rain, and it will probably continue most of the day. Seems quiet without Roger, and there is only a very remote chance of Dot making it downstairs before noon, though to be fair she made me a cup of tea earlier. Barb is tackling bookfuls of bridge problems, Dot is reading a brilliant book called Blink, and I am roughly halfway through the compelling Black Widow, by the aforementioned RWW. If I am not mistaken, we have reached the halfway point of our holiday.

Unexpected grace

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A pelican in Pine Island Sound

It’s now Thursday at 4pm. An odd few days. I was laid aside by a bad cold / sinus infection for a couple of days, and others did their own thing, which as far as I can make out was mostly shopping or eating. As I came round groggily, full of Benedryl and antibiotics, Dot went down with a cold. Since she is more resilient than me, she kept going, and last night we drove to the Mucky Duck for a meal. Normally this would be a ridiculous thing to do, since it is only a couple of hundred yards away, but the weather was so bad – cold and windy – that we bet on few people being about and the car park having vacancies. Both proved true, and they also started serving early. Had a grouper with some french sauce, preceded by nice little salad. Too much wine, unfortunately, which made my battered head swim. Still, we sat through two films: the appalling Cape of Good Hope and the rather good Definitely, Maybe. Earlier, somewhere in the mists of time, we saw Gran Torino, which was excellent. I also bought Randy Wayne White’s latest two Florida thrillers, which I’m looking forward to reading.

Today it emerged that both Roger and Barbara are going down with colds. As I write Barb is lying on the sofa, flaked out and coughing intermittently. Roger has a sore throat. Am I to blame for all this, gentlemen of the jury? Yes, probably; definitely; maybe. Despite our various states of health we drove up for breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe, which is rather like driving from Norwich to Blakeney for breakfast – about 45 minutes each way. Still they do a delicious breakfast: my first time this year – everyone else had already been twice. Afterwards we got gas and various drugstore items, then called in at a very large house on Captiva Road that had an Open Day (it was for sale: $4.5 million). Pretty impressive. I think I could stand living there.

Dot and I walked up to the post office to send postcards, and on the way back Dot purchased shorts and trousers. It is bitterly cold, with the wind biting and everyone saying Florida is never, ever like this. The beach is impossible, so we tried the dock, but it was really too cold there too. Apparently even the manatee have moved elsewhere, though the pelicans persist. Really graceful birds in flight – breathtaking because it’s so unexpected.

Road movie

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Icicles lining the highway in Kentucky

We’re now safely in Captiva, at 15098 Urchin Court, the place we stayed last time. Very comfortable and relaxing – at least I would be comfortable and relaxed if the cold I’ve been fighting off since the plane flight hadn’t eventually broken through. I was coughing a lot in the night, and I’ve persuaded the others to go off to breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe and leave me here. The temperature is warm, but not as warm as last time.

The journeying has gone well. We left six days ago at 10am in much different weather conditions: around freezing, but not unpleasant. Took the train to Liverpool Street and then decided on a cab to Paddington, which was the right decision, though it cost $20 (that’s pounds, but I’ll sort it out eventually). The Heathrow express was brilliant, landing us very quickly at Terminal 5, with which we were extremely impressed. Dropped bags and got through Security with no trouble. The flight was uneventful, though a bit chilly, and the food was surprisingly good. Curry for main meal, egg and spring onion sandwiches just before Toronto.

Met by strange waving couple who turned out to be Barb and Roger. They drove us back to Palmer Circle. Not much snow on the roads, but a nice aesthetic covering there. To bed after small supper at 10pm (3am UK). Not a good night – in fact sleeping proved to be quite a problem for several days – but went into Bolton with Roger in the morning. Sunglasses had got broken on the way, so replaced them with $9 pair from Walmart, much to Barb’s disgust. She and Dot were elsewhere. Not quite sure exactly where that was. In the evening we watched Mr & Mrs Smith, which was clever, funny and pseudo-violent. Just managed to stay awake for denouement.

Next day was just above freezing, and there some early swirls of snow. Drove into Toronto for lunch at Serra (goat’s cheese followed by pasta special) and then to the King Tut exhibition. Pretty impressive, especially the huge statue of Akhanatem, his father. Wrote poem about it. Three most ridiculous items in King Tut shop: 1 Tutchoo tissue box cover; 2 inflatable mummy; 3 baseball. Two most ridiculous rules: Roger had to go back and queue up to get the tickets redated, which then proved to be unnecessary; we weren’t allowed to sit on the steps. No, really. Back home through rush-hour traffic, then packed ready for 9am start the next day (Thurs 18th).

Left almost on the dot. Weather dull, but it brightened up as we neared Detroit. Stopped at Windsor for quick refreshment, then were held up for 40 minutes or so at border, but everyone was very pleasant. Then headed south through Michigan and Ohio to Cincinnati, where we stopped for a delicious lunch at the Cheesecake Factory. On to Williamsburg, Kentucky where we arrived after 10pm at the Columbia Inn. Splendid setting, but the room was a bit noisy (facing highway), and they seemed a bit understaffed. In America, everyone assumes you drink coffee.

Getting a bit warmer as we headed south again on the I75 through mountainous country (the Columbian Plateau), with spectacular icicles on the rocks, but not much snow. Lunch at the Buckhead Diner in Atlanta, Georgia: again superb food (veal meatloaf and mashed potatoes) and service. Very long last leg south after this. Barbara drove out of Atlanta in heavy traffic, and I did a three-hour stint taking us from south of Macon into Florida – the last part of it in the dark. Roger then took over, and we arrived in Sarasota after 11pm. Superb hotel – room was a suite, and it was quiet. And I could get a cup of tea.

Better night, and after a leisurely breakfast we left just after 10am. Temperature really warm now, and we watched it creep up to a maximum of 24C as we neared Captiva. Dropped away from that slightly, but very pleasant as we arrived at the house around 1am, but found it wasn’t quite ready for us. So went up to Starbucks and did a very little shopping. House excellent as expected: unpacked and Barb and Dot disappeared down the beach. Roger and I went to American Realty to get an extra key, then walked along the beach and over to the dock. In the evening we went to Traders, and I had the filet mignon special, which was special. Bought a baseball cap and called at video shop on way home. Watched State of Play, interrupted by frequent coughing from me. Had very disturbed night.

8 March 2007

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Well, Traders was a mistake. None of us was really hungry: apart from Roger, we had two starter plates, and they proved far too much. We had to slink out rather quickly.The wine was good though, as was the film – Walk the Line – biography of Johnny Cash. Up rather late this morning. Dot has gone up to the post office with Barbara, after which we shall embark on a tour of some of the lesser known parts of Sanibel. Weather is warm and bright.

The picture (by Dot) is of the exit from Sunset Captiva (where we’re staying) on to the beach.

5 March 2007

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In the end we skipped the kayaking for the time being, and played tennis instead. I was awful. I continue to be awful. I played again today with Roger and lost again despite his trying to help me. On Saturday evening we watched Being Julia – great performance by Annette Bening.

Yesterday it continued cooler, but it was still quite pleasant. We had brunch at the Lighthouse Cafe, then bought a couple of books and called in at the video store. On to a leisurely drive through the Nature Reserve, hunting for alligators. We saw a huge variety of birds and a few raccoons, but we had just about given up on the alligators when I saw a baby one in a creek near the exit. No sign of the mother.

Back at home played tennis (still awful) then home for food and two excellent films: The Merchant of Venice (superb performances from Al Pacino and Lynn Collins) and Keeping Mum (a surprisingly good comedy with Kirstin Scott Thomas and Rowan Atkinson, among others).

Today has been much cooler, which is to say the equivalent of a very acceptable English summer’s day. Barb and Dot are just back from Naples, where they bought a bundle of clothes. I walked up to the post office, back along the beach and over to the dock. Wind has shifted to the north, and there were crows on the dock. Haven’t seen them before. Very clear – Pine Island was very sharp. No sign of manatees, which had been mating yesterday, we think. Lots of action – very unusual. Only happens once every two years.

Now the other three have gone out to buy desserts from the Bubble Room. I didn’t feel much like going to a proper restaurant, and they wouldn’t go without me.

It’s much noisier now in Sunset Captiva – more families have come down for the March break, whatever that is.

The picture is Dot’s view of the Lady Chadwick, a boat that leaves the quay almost opposite us and promises dolphin sightings. The other evening it overshot its berth to view a dolphin opposite our dock. Could it have been the only one they’d seen?

3 March 2007

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This is Dot on the deck leading off our bedroom. I think hornets may be building a nest there.

In the end the journey to Naples wasn’t too bad, though we were stuck on Periwinkle Way for a long time. Happily, I took a book! We arrived at the theatre nearly an hour and a half early: great consternation because there was no food on sale, and Dot and Barb in particular were hungry. They had to make do with coffee, drunk outside in a courtyard. Lovely setting.

Riverdance was superb – quite stunning in several different ways. The dancing itself was amazing, of course, but I was particularly impressed by the small group of musicians, including a violinist and drummer who were out of this world.

Back in the car by 10.20, we stopped for succour at a filling station: cake and chocolates. Home before midnight.

On the way to Naples, on Highway 41, we were overtaken by a motor cycle. A mile or so further on we found the bike wrecked and the young rider lying on the ground: he had clearly hit a car. He didn’t look at all good, though he wasn’t dead. The difference a few minutes can make…

Yesterday was fairly quiet. Did a bit of grocery shopping with Barb (Roger was painting) and then called at Bowman’s beach on Sanibel. Lovely approach paths through trees and bushes, and a lagoon just behind the sand. The beach itself was quite crowded, though the sea was very perky, and there was intermittent low cloud. Certainly picturesque.

Later went to the dock again. Several manatee about. We booked a trip on a sailing boat for Tuesday.

Evening meal at Dolce Vita, where the ambience was sophisticated, more like a city restaurant, with live music. The food was first class, as was the service. Really good meal. Home by about 8.30 and watched Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, which I found irritating and pretentious. No likeable characters and not much coherence either.

Now Dot and Barbara are up at the pool. Roger has just finished his portrait of Dot – wonderful – and there is the prospect of kayaking this afternoon, though I’m a bit worried about my stomach.