We’ve been back from Scotland for a couple of days now – almost all of that time spent in catching up with paperwork, taking phone calls and dealing with money matters. Fortunately the work from Howard which I anticipated early yesterday did not arrive until the evening, but I shall have to tackle it some time today. The weather has been warm, and Dot and I took time out to walk to the shops yesterday afternoon: a welcome break. Speaking of welcome breaks, one unexpected hassle was two demands for parking payment from the Welcome Break service area at Abington, where we’d stayed overnight on the way north. I’ve written them a sharp rebuttal, but I had to get the proof of overnight stay sorted, scanned and sent, which all takes time.
Andrew’s fees also had to be dealt with because, despite months of notice and repeated reminders from me to them, Coventry City Council have managed not to get their takeover of payments organised. So I had phone calls from the care home owner and from Andrew’s social worker (as we drove past Coventry on the way home!), and two letters from the council waiting. At least I think I now know what he has to pay each week. Reassuringly, the Pensions people have sent back my power of attorney (I had feared they’d lose it), but they still haven’t started paying Andrew’s Pension Credit. No doubt they’ll get round to it.
Anyway, while staying in Scotland I have kept a diary. The reception up there was too poor to be able to write it on my iPhone as it happened, so here it is.
Saturday, May 14
Rather trying circumstances for the journey north. I had a bad night on Thursday, with a stomach upset that kept me awake for much of the time. Not sure what caused it, but its effects linger on as I write, in the rather chilly lounge of the Ballater cottage. We travelled down to Caddington on the morning of Friday, with Dot driving, and reached David’s house at 11.30. Shortly afterwards the three of us left for St Albans, where I’d booked lunch at Loch Fyne. Very good meal, and I felt better enough to really enjoy it. But after we’d given David his early birthday presents and started to head north, I felt very groggy. When we reached the M6 toll I actually dozed off for a split second before being roused by the noise of the road as I slipped right towards the central reservation. As a result, Dot drove from there and we progressed very slowly up the M6, with continual hold-ups as traffic ground to a halt for no discernible reason. We eventually emerged from the horror that is Greater Manchester and reached the Lake District, where we stopped briefly and I felt well enough to take over again, though my stomach was still bad. After a brief diversion north of Gretna, progress was smooth through the Borders, where the M74 is a beautiful road. If only all driving were like that.
Reached Abington at about 9.30, where I managed a sandwich before retiring. Much better night’s sleep, though I had to get up twice. Managed breakfast too, and Dot drove north at breakneck speed, until we reached the A80, which has been in the process of transformation for many years and has now reached the stage of having a 40mph limit for nearly ten miles. One distant day, perhaps, the work will be complete – by which time the ludicrous road safety industry will have achieved such domination that the limit for the entire country will be about 50mph and I will have departed screaming with frustration to my grave.
After this the roads were beautiful again, and we headed for our favourite cafe at Ballathie, only to find it shut. So we motored on, with me driving now, and eventually reached Braemar, where it was wet and much colder. We stopped at the Fife Arms for our customary sandwich, served by the customary delightful East European waitress.
Then on to Ballater, where we found the house in good order. Apparently Ella is preparing it for sale later this year. We had several attempts to unload, being interrupted by rain each time it looked set in sunny, and then enjoyed a couple of car excursions before booking in at the Glen Lui for tomorrow and the Green Inn for next Thursday. Took a few photos in late evening sunlight. Stomach seems on the mend, but my head is not what it should be. No surprise there.
Sunday, May 15
Weather middling. Dot checked out a few shops to see if they were still there, and then waited until Dave and Julia arrived at about 1.30. We’d already had something to eat because their earlier text implied they might have been having something to eat on the way. So we improvised lunch for them and then did a walking tour of town, including the station museum, which had improved once again. Drove down to Loch Muick to take the customary look.
Monday, May 16
Persistently showery. Down to Glen Muick: set out at about 11.30 in brief sun for eight-mile walk round the loch, starting with bridge and beach at its head. The footbridge seemed a bit the worse for wear, sagging in the middle. I empathised. Firm soggy wind against us. Picnic by beach at Allt Glas Shiel, then ever onward. Wind behind us as we turned for home, but as we did so the rain stopped and it turned quite pleasant. Feeling pretty tired towards end. Herd of deer in the valley busy feeding. Couple of lapwings. Workmen refurbishing toilets. About ten French caravettes en route intermittently for Spittal of Glenmuick: some kind of convention? Drove to Crannach for tea and scones, then to Cambus O’May (means bend in the river on the plain) for look at suspension bridge. Then home. Pause at the moment while we contemplate buying fish and chips.
Tuesday, May 17
Miraculously dry, and even occasionally warm out of the wind. Drove to Log Cabin, where I bought a shirt, Dot bought a top and we had tea/coffee and toasted teacake. Toasted teacake not so wonderful. Quick look round cemetery opposite. On to Knock Gallery, where I bought a picture out of the blue: superb pastel of Linn of Quoich. Reckless, I know. Dot bought ring and earrings, which were discounted. Thence to Braemar, where we lunched at the Fife Arms and were shown the rooms at Dot’s instigation. Very nice. (We’re looking at other options for when Ella really does sell the wee house.) Then to Linn of Quoich, which was as magical as ever. Bridge blocked to cars because it’s falling apart, though not so you’d notice. Julia very interested in restoring abandoned cottages. Back to Braemar just after 4.30pm for visit to Tourist Information and a couple of other shops. Feeling pretty shattered at this point. Back in car, drove up back road beside Clunie Water, then returned on main road to Crathie – quick look at Distillery (closed), then by back road to Knock Castle, which we accessed by driving up very rough road (probably a mistake), then home. Booked in at La Mangiatoia (formerly the Hayloft) for 8pm. Excellent steak.
Wednesday, May 18
Some sun, but very cold wind and occasional rain; even some snow falling briefly on Cairn Gorm. David’s birthday, so rang and wished him a happy one. After posting cards drove to Cairn Gorm. Bridge of Brown cafe not open, so postponed coffee till we not only arrived at the mountain railway but reached the top. Wind on viewing platform immense – guided walks to top abandoned (not that we were going). Did the usual round of exhibition and shop, plus fish and chips for me and baked potato for Dot. After we took a pretty packed train down, I repaired to the car while the other three crazily walked up to the camera obscura in icy rain and pretended they enjoyed it. Drove through Aviemore, then on the way home stopped at the Whisky Castle at Tomintoul, where after much tasting Julia bought a single cask malt. Over the road at the Old Fire Station cafe we had tea and meringue, then drove to the Well of Lecht, where we recklessly walked up to the manganese mine and back, still in a fierce and very cold wind. Chinese takeaway in the evening, followed by several games of Take Two.
Thursday, May 19
Wind still cool, but not so strong. Mainly dry. Started at Larks Gallery, where Dave and Julia bought a photograph, which they arranged to have framed by a woman at Dinnet, in the short time remaining to them. So we drove up there and met her: she was lovely – very friendly and oozing goodwill. From there we drove to the Lochnagar Distillery, but just missed a scheduled tour so returned to Ballater for lunch. I had a new watch battery fitted while the others went to the delicatessen. After lunch returned to the Distillery, where we enjoyed an excellent guided tour from Leanne, despite both Dot and Julia having coughing problems – probably (in Dot’s case, anyway) from tasting barley husks. The tour ended with a bit of tasting, and Julia bought two bottles. Back in Ballater we climbed Craigendarroch at my insistence and rounded off the day at the Green Inn, which as always fulfilled expectations.
Friday, May 20
Heavy rain early (before I got up) but then surprisingly dry and sunny, though with a chill wind. Did the seven bridges walk, and Julia checked the number. Included the secret lochan, so it worked out at just over six miles, and we were all feeling pretty tired at the end. This didn’t prevent the Evetts continuing into town to buy some extra food for lunch, wile Dot and I flaked out for a few minutes before setting the table. After lunch Dot and Julia went shopping while Dave and I first picked up his picture from the framer, Jay Hart, then continued to the Burn O’ Vat, where the visitor centre had been vastly improved. Dave impressed by the Vat itself, and we walked up to a precarious point on top before walking on the other side of the road in a vain attempt to reach the loch (we were getting pretty tired in view of our morning exertions). Returned home to find Julia had bought quite a few things, and I had to go back to Byzantium tomorrow to see Dot try on a skirt. We ended the day with fish and chips and a battered Mars bar (oh yes we did), followed by a bit of bridge and Take Two.
Saturday, May 21: Grey and cold, with some rain later. Evetts left at 9.45, and we went into town to view and buy the skirt, plus a top suggested by the extrovert owner. Then bought food, Dot did some washing and we proceeded to the Log Cabin, where we had bacon and syrup pancakes followed by ice cream. Also bought some postcards and a book on Ballater intended as a Christmas present for the Evetts. Back at the house had a long rest and watched part of a Cohen DVD. Already our all-action holiday has ground to a halt. Listened to Bob Dylan prog (he is 70 on Tuesday) on Radio 4, then three episodes of Dollhouse on DVD. Bed rather late, and had a disturbed night, for some reason.
Sunday, May 22
Mainly dry. Very windy. Went to church (stepping back 40 years) and admired new stained glass window. Then to Station Restaurant for shared expensive Ploughman’s. Headed for Burn o’Vat, but it looked crowded, so we continued to Tomnaverie stone circle – a first for us. Short walk to top of low hill, where we were nearly blown over. Good view of Lochnagar framed by stones. Drove on to Glen Tanar, where we made a brief foray into the visitor centre, which was being refurbished, then walked to the chapel, where we found a sheltered spot and sat in the sun for quite a while watching the birds. Lovely peaceful time. After returning to the car we drove to a spot near the Dee where there is a classic view of Morven. Got a nice picture of a heron in flight and saw a huge fish jumping. Went to Glen Lui restaurant again: good food and service but had stomach upset afterwards, possibly related to something I ate earlier. Watched another episode of Dollhouse. Compelling stuff.
Monday, May 23
Better night. Weather appalling as I write at noon. Very high winds and torrential rain. Apparently a lot of disruption in the west. Finished Leonard Cohen biography: some interesting stuff about the most recent tour, but patchy otherwise and some surprisingly bad editing. Dot is making some phone calls and we’re about to write some postcards… OK, now we’re in bed. We’ve finished and sent all our postcards. I went down to post them just before 10pm, then decided to take a look at the river, which was very high and very fast. Went and fetched Dot to have a look, then drove along to Dinnet for a view from our favourite riverside spot. Certainly impressive, both from Ballater bridge and the one at Dinnet. Some minor flooding along banks. Continuing to rain heavily on and off, and reports of damage caused by high winds further north and west. As a result much of day has been spent indoors, apart from an earlier trip into town for food (plus tea and coffee in Station Restaurant) and a trip to the Burn o’Vat visitor centre, where we chatted to a ranger who had relatives in Gt Yarmouth. Finished Series One of Dollhouse (including unaired pilot). Impressive.
Tuesday, May 24
Turned out unexpectedly nice in a relative sort of way, taking into account the customary high winds. Slow start; listened to Radio 4 programme on Bob Dyan’s spiritual journey which was pretty well done, though no-one seems to grasp that you can be Jewish and Christian at the same time (cf Jesus and all the disciples, St Paul etc). Caught a bit of a preceeding green-tinged programme which featured some of the worst poetry I’ve ever heard, full of cliches and without a single bright idea, basically apologising to children for what the previous generation did. (Great coincidental email from Brian Caldecott debunking this whole idea.) After this we walked around the river path – about three miles. River is still high and fast, covering areas of stones we normally walk on. After buying and eating lunch we made for the Burn o’Vat again and after walking the circular path tackled another one which was alleged to be 2.7 miles but was well over three and a-half. Included a nice bit by the loch with a good view of a crannog. We also saw a huge bird that was probably an osprey but looked more like an eagle, which was pretty exciting. It was very big. Also a large number of other birds. Found warm spot to sit as the wind dropped but couldn’t wait long as we were running late for La Mangiatoia, where the steak wasn’t as good as last time. Exhausted after we got home with about nine miles under our belts; tried to watch Cuckoo, but it didn’t make any sense; so watched the first episode of Dollhouse series two, which did.
Wednesday, May 25
Very lazy day, but in justification the weather was overcast and chilly, continually threatening rain, which occasionally materialised. Our long lie-in was disturbed amazingly by men mending the gutters, apparently as part of a job commissioned by the council for the adjoining buildings. We slunk into our clothes while the workmen had lunch, and then drove to Braemar after picking up some info about accommodation from the Tourist office in Ballater. Not tremendously helpful. In Braemar had late, lingering lunch in the hotel, then drove back to Ballater, stopping to walk down to Monaltrie Street, a collection of ruined houses and a mill on the river bank. Last time we were there we saw salmon jumping: no such luck this time, perhaps because the river was so full. There was a chill in the air, so we went back to the car and drove home, where it had just begun to rain. Rang Phil and Joy: all well at home. Had a couple of burgers and watched more episodes of Dollhouse: now six into second series.
Thursday, May 26
Overcast, cold and damp, with frequent rain. Got up a bit earlier and called at Larks Gallery, where we bought a number of items, including a small photograph, which we took to Jay Hart for framing. Then on to Log Cabin (via Dinnet and Strathdon) for bacon and maple syrup pancake. Drove on up Lecht road to take in the cloud views, and a personal appearance by a black-headed gull that seemed to be posing for us. Stopped a couple of times to read, then a short walk before back to house. Green Inn for evening meal – another excellent offering. Two more episodes of Dollhouse. Amazing shades of green in hills.
Friday, May 27
Starting a bit warmer and dry, with some sun, but steady fine rain by late afternoon. Drove to Balmoral, and after a muffin and tea did the long (blue) walk that I don’t think we’ve done before. Very pleasant: really quiet in the woods on the hill. No-one else around at all – almost mystical. As we got back down to the ballroom a fine, steady rain had started to fall, and this did not let up until evening. Had further refreshment and bought a few items both inside and outside the Castle grounds, including a DVD of Deeside. Dot called in at the Estate Office to ask about a few cottages on the estate for future use. Fish and chips in evening. Almost finished Dollhouse: only the epitaph to the second series to go. Did finish reading Anatomy of Ghosts, which became quite compelling: colourful 18C setting for a kind of mystery thriller – worked well.
Saturday, May 28
Sunshine and showers; a bit warmer, except in the wind. Missed breakfast and had early lunch in the cafe on the main street, which was surprisingly good. Dot spoke very highly of her butternut squash, coconut and chilli soup, and my cheese and onion sandwiches came with hotel-like trimmings. Rock cake good too. Drove down Glen Muick in afternoon. Parking is free at the Spittal while the toilets are being refurbished (something to do with power being off). We walked part of the Lochnagar path, starting in bright sunshine, though rather buffeted by wind off the loch. Through woods and up on to sandy, easy part of the track up the mountain, where we took shelter from a shower. Could have gone further, but decided to turn back because of time restraints: we had to be at Banchory by just after 7pm for Ella’s party. Nice walk, though: had a good look at the house at the foot of the path with a view to renting it some time in the future! Got to Banchory by about 7.10 and realised we didn’t know where the hotel was. I had assumed it was the same place as the last time, but it wasn’t. So Dot called in at the police station, where they were very helpful. Banchory Lodge Hotel is in fantastic setting by the river. The Pimms reception was outside in the sun (but the wind was still chilly), and both Dot and I saw a salmon jump. Inside we had a sit-down meal, with a certain amount of swapping of tables, so we talked to a number of people, all of them very pleasant. Exchanged addresses etc with John and Kath Allison from Lumphanan, with whom we ended up. Both teachers – J retired, and K about to, though like Dot she didn’t appear to be anywhere near it. Later joined by Linda and her husband (John? – probably not). Really good time. Meal not huge but very tasty – just how we like it. Drove home carefully (I had moderated my drinking severely) and arrived safely at about 12.45am.
Sunday, Monday, Tuesday: Felt surprisingly well on Sunday and decided to walk the circular route round Craigendarroch. Got a bit lost and climbed a steep bit, then found ourselves on a new path. Got round the other side, but then found ourself on the path back down. Signposts not at all helpful, as the circular path also goes to the top. Anyway it was fun. Very windy. Dot then dropped me off at start of Glen Muick road, and I walked back to town while she had a look at the shops. Started raining, and Dot picked me up by chance in Bridge Street. Finished the packing and had evening meal at Glen Lui, which was excellent yet again. Rounded off the evening by watching the final Dollhouse episode and one or two extras.
Had another bad night. Left Ballater at 11am on Monday and stopped for early lunch at Fife Arms in Braemar. Left there by noon, and Dot drove up to a service station just south of Glasgow, having been held up slightly by an accident on the A9 near Stirling. I then took over the driving and we reached Tebay farm shop around 4.45pm and bought some food, together with a map to show us the way into Kendal. Took scenic route into town, brilliantly navigated by Dot, and reached the Premier Inn just before 6pm. Receptionist found us a parking spot and we had a drink and a short walk before repairing to our room for our makeshift but very tasty meal.
Good room, buy still didn’t sleep well. Left at 9.45am, and I drove as far as M6 Toll services. Last bit frustrating with lots of traffic and occasional standstills. Had muffin, and Dot drove as far as Cambridge Services. Comfort stop, then I drove home, arriving around 4pm. Spent a long time unpacking and looking at financial matters. Paul rang to say Kathleen had gone into a care home.