Just over 2000 miles later… We’ve spent most of yesterday and today burrowing out from under a pile of washing and mail and replying to e-mails. And of course, still not finished. We also went with Judy for cake and compline at the Archers last night, and today I went to a Paston Footprints meeting at North Walsham, during which I felt extraordinarily tired. But of course I need to relate the essentials of our holiday in the Outer Hebrides and Scotland.
It began on Monday, July 18, when we left Norwich about 10.30 and endured a couple of diversions on the M6 before arriving at Abington around 7.15. We had stopped at Thrapston, Keele, Charnock Richard and Westmoreland services. Mostly the weather was warm and dry, but there was a sharp shower just before we arrived. Total: 412 miles.
On the Tuesday we left Abington at 10.23 and got to Oban almost exactly three hours later, having stopped once by Loch Lomond to change drivers (Dot>Tim). The weather was very warm, and slow drivers were a bit of a plague except on the stretch after Crianlarich. Got petrol on the outskirts of Oban and went straight to the hotel. Glad we did, because there was limited parking. Couldn’t book in till 3pm; so we walked into town, got our ferry tickets and ate seafood on the quay, then a cup of tea and a Danish pastry in town.
We booked in to the hotel just before 4pm and after a rest walked eastward along the seafront and found an idyllic spot overlooking the bay. The sky was blue and it was very warm: weatherwise, it was the high point of the holiday. Later we had a bar meal in the hotel and went to sleep pretty easily. There were violent thunderstorms during the night, but I hardly noticed, though Dot watched the lightning from our window. 547.2 miles.
On Wednesday, July 20 we woke up to a grey morning with some light rain. Had an excellent breakfast, then drove up to McCaig’s Tower and looks some pictures from the top between showers. We then parked in town and had a cup of tea in the same cafe as the day before before joining the ferry queue by 12.30. The ferry left at 1.45.
The trip to Castlebay on Barra took nearly five hours. Once disembarked we followed a narrow road for a few miles before finding Heathbank Hotel, standing on its own. Finding it was made easy because it had its name in huge letters on the front – and by the fact that the car in front of us went there too. Nice bedroom, with a great view. Had meal in the bar – Dot venison, me steak – then went for a short walk wearing anti-midge bracelets. Commendable precaution, but I don’t think we saw a single midge in the Outer Hebrides.
We spent Thursday on Barra, starting with a visit to the airport to find the time the plane landed on the beach. Then, finding it arrived at 11.30, we drove further, then visited the ferry terminal for tomorrow. Back at the airport we went into the cafe. I reconnoitred for the best position for a video, and it started raining. By the time the plane arrived, 20 minutes late, I was wet, back inside and missed the landing. Got it taxi-ing, though, and a video of it taking off – shot from the car in the rain.
The second half of the day was much more successful. We drove round the west side of the island and into Castlebay to buy sandwiches at the Co-op, then over the causeway to Vatersay – a beautiful island. Ate sandwiches in the car on the side of a hill near a memorial to a Catalina that crashed with the loss of three of its crew. Then walked on both stunning beaches, west and east, before heading back to Castlebay, where we saw a man fall over. He asked us for a lift to Vatersay village – about as far back as you can go – and we agreed, though he was clearly drunk. The bus driver had (understandably) refused to take him. So we went all the way back again. He was no trouble, but repetitive. Apparently he’d been to a public school in Berkshire, but it had all been downhill since then.Even “Scraggy Maggy” had rejected him, for rather obvious reasons. Left him in the further reaches of Vatersay and returned to hotel for cup of tea. 611.1 miles. Always a bit of rain in the air, but not too cool.
Not sleeping very well. On Friday, July 22 took the 11am ferry to Eriskay. Quite a pleasant day all day, though often cloudy. Stopped at a cafe, then drove up through South Uist, stopping at one of the beaches where a river flowed through. Walked to the sea and went in an old church. Drove on and stopped at Hebridean Jewellery, as recommended by a waitress at the Barra hotel. Had a panini and bought some postcards. On to Benbecula, where there was an airport and we saw a plane take off. Then on to North Uist, where we walked up to a prehistoric burial mound.
On to the hotel at Lochmaddy, which was very nice. After dinner walked down to the water’s edge. Weather forecast dreadful. 675 miles. Discovered that my watch is either broken or the battery is dead. Suspect latter.
High cloud at first on the Saturday. Set off for Berneray, a small island at the north of North Uist (causeway), where we drove to a recommended spot near a beach, which we walked to in rapidly deteriorating weather: gave up after reaching beach and returned to the car cold and wet. Great beach, though. Back to hotel to dry off, and had tea in the bar while our room was being cleaned.
The heavy rain was allegedly due to ease; so we drove to a pub (the only one on North Uist), where we were just in time for a lunch of carrot, coriander and honey soup with rough bread. Delicious. Drove further, and on a side road encountered two huge white-tailed eagles (I think) that had just caught prey. Also a possible sighting of a hen harrier. Drove on round the north of the island, but the weather was getting worse again. Eventually arrived back at Lochmaddy and visited museum/art gallery. Bought two CDs – Julie Fowlis and Salm – and a puffin for Andrew. Got petrol at village filling station: filled car then went into village shop to pay (no directions, just guessed). No evening meal tonight – trying to give stomachs a rest. 742.4 miles.
Sunday, July 24 was a much nicer day: entirely dry and milder. Left just before 11am, posted cards and headed for ferry, taking a detour to Loch Potain on the way – quite a pleasant road out in the wilds. In good time for the ferry from Berneray – parked and wandered around. The boat was a bit bigger than last time, but not huge. We sat outside at the front while the boat took a very winding route across the Sound of Harris to Leverburgh, during which we saw a few seals.
The road up the west side of Harris was stunningly beautiful. We stopped high up by a golf course and ate our rolls (no cafes open because it was Sunday: only ferries and hotels open). Stopped once before before heading across the hills to Tarbert – a ferry terminal and our next port of call, the Hebrides Hotel, where we stayed for three nights. Too late to book the restaurant; so we ate in the bar – fish and chips for me, burger for Dot. Before that we watched the ferry leaving for Uig on Skye, then went for a walk. After eating we watched cricket then drove to Scalpay Island (across newish bridge). Beautiful road with lovely evening views.
Monday turned out to be pretty much the perfect day. It stayed dry despite the forecast, and there was even some sun at times. We started at Luskentyre beach, where we walked on the sand and had great views, particularly of Taransay Island, where Castaway 2000, a TV series, was filmed. Then we drove to the Hebridean Arts cafe for tea and scones. We bought some jewellery and cards, and then proceeded to the Golden Road on the east side of Harris – a beautiful winding road with rocky bays and inlets.
At Gotesay bought a Harris Tweed waistcoat for me and a jacket for Dot – the latter a special Centenary Tweed woven by Donald John Mackay, who is about as good as its gets. The seller gave us his address (Number 6 on the Luskentyre road) and we drove there with not particularly high hopes, but Dot saw him near his house (which had appeared deserted, though open) and accosted him. He showed us his loom and gave us a demonstration.
He had actually been waiting for a procession of tractors on a charity run. We had passed them earlier, but several of them arrived while we were at his house, and he (and we) had a chat with them. I had a feeling that one of the drivers was his granddaughter. Afterwards we drove back to the hotel and then into North Harris, where we walked to an eagle observatory. No sign of eagles till we walked back to car, when we saw three in the sky. Was able to get binoculars on them and even take a couple of pictures; so am sure they were golden eagles.
Back to the hotel for a meal, where the two waitresses coped brilliantly with much of the food running out. Gave them a sizeable tip. Had superb chicken ballantine (stuffed with haggis) and a bottle of red wine.
Tuesday started very wet but improved quickly. This was another good day, but with lots of driving – first to the Callanish (Calanais) standing stones on Lewis, where we arrived early enough to get some reasonable pictures and avoid the worst of the crowds. Had tea and scones in visitors’ centre and bought a couple of things. Then on to blackhouse village, which was pretty impressive. Bought DVD for Dot on peat-digging and weaving which was on loop in one of the houses. Then drove long winding road to beach at Ardroil, where there was a carved statue of a Lewis chessman by the dunes. Walked over dunes to the beach. Dot drove back, and we had another lovely meal at the restaurant – I had steak this time. We love Tarbert. 1003 miles.
Wednesday, July 27 was our 48th wedding anniversary and marked the end of our Outer Hebridean adventure, though not the end of our holiday. Very wet start. I put cases in the car while Dot went to the shops. Then after checking out we stopped at the nearby Harris Tweed shop and bought a very expensive book as an anniversary present. It was £130, but unique and beautiful.
After this we drove to Stornaway and joined the queue for the largest ferry yet – the Loch Seaforth. We left the car and walked into town, getting tea and coffee in the smallest tea shop in the Highlands – one table. Run by a German woman, who was very chatty and extremely knowledgeable on tea. While there got a call from Coventry saying Andrew was having a mental health assessment and would be going into hospital again. Back to the ferry, where we had a meal as soon as we got on board. The journey took just under three hours, arriving at Ullapool just after 5pm. Drove to Lochinver, where the Culag Hotel was very old-fashioned but basically OK. Went for a walk, but it was bit cold, so we drove for a bit through beautiful scenery and chanced on three deer and a stag by the roadside. Rained a lot during the day, a lot between Ullapool and Lochinver, but the evening was dry.
On Thursday it was very wet on the road north and still quite unpleasant as we reached Fanagmore and our B&B of nearly 40 years ago, looking exactly the same, but wetter. Tiny roads hereabouts still beautiful. Thence to Durness, managing to overtake a convoy of four Italian motorhomes. Durness road still beautiful in the mist, but at Durness (Balnakiel) I hit my head on a lintel at a ruined church and on the floor when I fell over backwards. Happily I just avoided a gravestone, which could have been disastrous had my head struck it. Weather had improved enough to go on beach – more nostalgia – and we had tea/coffee at craft village café.
On the way back to Lochinver we called at Oldshoremore, where we visited the toilets and then had hot drinks in the Sandwood Bay car park before driving down to nearby quay, where we saw jellyfish. Afterwards we drove back via Scourie, where we stopped at the jetty and at a bird hide (crowds of oystercatchers) and then by a loch on the run-in to Lochinver, where we got some great pictures of late sun on tiny islands. Had a surprisingly good meal at the hotel – Yorkshire pudding Yorkshire-style. Superb bubbly Italian waitress called Cara contrasted with a rather drab village. Big mix of nationalities in the North of Scotland. Brief walk after supper, but it started raining again: eerie view of Suilven through the clouds.
No wi-fi in hotel and no phone signal at Lochinver, but while at Durness I managed to get through to Coventry and contact Andrew at the hospital. Couldn’t manage to get any coherent comment from anyone at the hospital. 1230 miles.
On Friday, July 29, astonishingly, it was raining. But as we made our way eastwards on a rather lonely, single-track road, it gradually brightened up. Took it in turns driving till we reached Bridge of Brown. By then we had given totally wrong directions to a Scot looking for the Falls of Shin and failed to catch him to put him right, and had spent longer on a roundabout at Inverness than most people do eating their lunch. The A9 could be a beautiful road but is blighted by speed cameras as well as the odd roundabout. We were the sole customers at Bridge of Brown and Dot decided it needed an overhaul, which she could easily arrange. I had the Broon Special, a kind of burger that was actually very good.
Before we reached Ballater there was another first – a queue at Gairnshiel Bridge for no apparent reason. Arrived at the Glen Lui Hotel at about 4pm. 1391 miles. After sorting out clothes, we talked into town in very light intermittent rain and saw the devastation wreaked by fire and flood. Many shops still drying out. Station totally destroyed. Brilliant new Co-op, though. Had cheeseboard and wine at Rock Salt and Snails, which had re-opened after flooding on June 29. Lovely cafe. Green Inn and Hayloft both shut, the latter probably for good. The guy at RS&S said the water rose and fell within a few hours: it “seemed to come from nowhere”. 1451 miles.
On Saturday we woke to rain again. But by the time were reached Loch Muick car park it had stopped, and amazingly there were midges in attendance. Sprayed ourselves, but by the time we reached the Loch footpath they’d vanished, and we never saw them again – either there or anywhere else. Did the walk round the head of the loch, then drove back to Ballater, visited the Co-op, then RS&S for scones. Back at the hotel we spoke to David on Facetime, then drove along the A93 to find the new stretch of road. Missed it at first and got to Braemar to find the Fife Arms covered in scaffolding. Aargh!
Found new stretch of road on the way back, then visited the bridge at Cambus O’May – very bent and of course closed. Back at the hotel we did a brief circular walk, on to the golf course and round on to the river path. Over five miles altogether today. More showers in the afternoon, and in the evening we had dinner at the Glen Lui with Ella, who was understandably very subdued at first but livened up quickly. The meal was excellent. She gave me one of David’s ties as a memento of him.
On Sunday, July 31 we walked to church in the morning – congregation even smaller than we remembered, going even further back in time. Sermon theme: “Do not be afraid.” Walked back to hotel, then drove to log cabin for teacakes and tea. Outside saw two eagles flying high. Drove up to the first hill on the Lecht to see new sculpture seats, then back to view of Lochnagar on Balmoral road. Read for a bit: occasional rain. Drove South Deeside road to our favourite spot beyond Dinnet, where the flood had a big effect on the opposite bank. Then back to hotel to relax with cup of tea, followed by another good meal.
Woke up to a blue sky on the Monday, but still some light showers throughout the day. Drove to Linn of Quoich after getting petrol at Braemar (1524 miles). Bridge down and river diverted. Accessed other side of Quoich Water by climbing path round the hill. Footbridge looked OK, but closed. Some teenagers paddled across. Walked back along the ridge – steep descent to car. Drove to Glen Shee, had lunch and got (new) chairlift to the top, where we met Peter Anderson, who was of course taught by Ella. Very cold at first with rain, but improved. On top of The Cairnwell, spoke to man taking his grandchildren up their first Munro. Drove back to Ballater after stopping for a read on the Glenshee road and then stopping at Balmoral to buy napkins! Meant to have early evening meal at RS&S, but they had finished cooking at 4.30pm. So after having scone and cake plus tea (me) and Prosecco (Dot) we bought fish and chips and drove up Glen Muick road to eat there. Later had tea/coffee in hotel lounge and sorted out packing for tomorrow. Apparently it’s going to rain…
By the end of Tuesday, August 2 we had clocked up over 2000 miles – and it hardly rained at all. Long journey, but no real problems other than tiredness. Stopped at Stirling, Annadale Water (petrol), Westmoreland and Knutsford. Arrived shortly after 7pm and lost my glasses.
On Wednesday the glasses remained missing despite an extensive search. Otherwise quite a nice day. After breakfast we called at Minster Lodge and spoke to Helen. One of the staff gave me a bear to take to Andrew at Caludon Centre. Saw him for about 45 minutes; also saw doctor and filled him in about Andrew’s past. They don’t appear to keep notes. Andrew not as bad as he might have been. Physically OK. Gave him some little things for his birthday. Got text from David, inviting us to drop in – so we did. Played cricket with Oliver and chatted to Amy. All seem well. Dot drove most of way home – we got some food from Waitrose at Wymondham. After arrival home went and spoke to Des and Chris, who had looked after our plants – we gave them wine and cake. Discovered our wall at the side (NWT) had been knocked down or possibly fell of its own accord. As walls do.
Total: 2193.6 miles.