
Between July 10 and 28, Dot and I were away from home. This is just on the edge of what I find comfortable in the area of being away from home, but well within the boundaries of time I feel comfortable in Scotland. There’s a paradox for you. Ah, well. It went a bit like this:
Wednesday, July 10
Drove to Glasgow. Started cloudy and cool but became warmer – very warm on arrival. So warm in fact that Dot backed into a parked van. Don’t ask me why. Van escaped unscathed. Drive up pretty good, the only hold-up being at Elveden, where a car had broken down. Stopped at Cambridge Services, M6 Toll, Carnock Richard and Westmorland Farm Shop, then again briefly so that Dot could drive on approach to Glasgow. Couldn’t see any way to get on to M8 going in right direction (east), so went off and came on again, which worked well. Tried to follow Premier Inn directions, but went astray near the Cathedral; enlisted the help of Google Maps on my iPhone, after which it was a total doddle. Nice hotel with welcoming staff. I had a steak, and Dot lasagne after watching Test match highlights. Brief walk to river afterwards.

Thursday, July 11
After quite a good night’s sleep had a reasonable breakfast, then headed out in the sun to Dot’s birthplace – 24 Waterside Road – which we found without much difficulty about a mile away. The road is still there, bordered by the River Clyde, but the houses look a bit newer, though the area is clearly still less than affluent. Took pix of Dot on her second appearance in the Gorbals, then we crossed Ballater Street (and the river) into Glasgow Green, a beautiful park containing the People’s Palace and the Winter Gardens, where we had an ice cream and visited a museum with some wartime memories of the area.
We then walked across the park and up to St Andrew’s in the Square, where we picked up a tourist bus which took us across town and via many noteworthy landmarks to the Kelvingrove Museum. Here we had tea and a sandwich and looked at a lot of excellent pictures, plus a Rennie Mackintosh room, and got very tired. Undeterred we headed out again, following directions that surprisingly turned out to be right, up the hill to the university – a very wearing walk in the sun – and the Mackintosh House there, where we joined a guided tour. This turned out to be very interesting, despite an irritating American who kept trying to turn it into a private question-and-answer session. While waiting for the tour we popped into the adjacent Hunterian Museum, which had pictures by Whistler next to somewhere we could sit down. After the tour we caught the tour bus again (one ticket for two days) and headed homewards. During a convenient break I managed to get some cash from a machine, then we continued to the stop where we originally boarded before walking the last half-mile or so (bit more so, in fact) back to the Premier Inn and some iced fizzy water.
Friday, July 12
Another hot day, and my 68th birthday. I have been an adult for 50 years, or half a century, whichever seems longer. After breakfast we walked to St Andrew’s in the Square and caught the tour bus to George Square.We then walked to John Street, where we spoke to a friendly guy in the city hall about Dot’s search for her birth details. He wasn’t able to help much, but referred us to the Mitchell Library for voters’ lists for 1945. Dot decided she didn’t want to spend a lot of time doing that, so instead we walked through the city centre to Sauchiehall Street and the famous Willow Tea Rooms, which turned out to be not only famous but lovely and not packed out. We both had tea, and I had a strawberry tart. The design was amazing; great atmosphere. After a couple of purchases in the shop downstairs, we got the bus again and walked back to the hotel from our usual stop.
After a brief respite with iced fizzy water, we got directions from the receptionist to Pollok Park and the Burrell Collection. This didn’t work out perfectly, largely because Dot mistook the end point on the map for the beginning, and vice versa. However with the help of the atlas and Google maps we eventually made it. Pollok Park is stunning, and so is the building housing the Burrell Collection (though the eco-friendly roof doesn’t work and is leaking in places). I was not too impressed by the temporary exhibition, but the permanent exhibition upstairs was interesting (I liked Baudin and Ribot), and there was some lovely work by Rodin, including The Thinker. Good cafe too.
Lasting impressions of Glasgow: the wideness of the roads, the slowness of the traffic lights, the way all the exhibitions are free – oh, and the friendliness of the people, especially those in our hotel.
Saturday, July 13
Woke latish following a bad night. After breakfast discovered that David and the children were already on the road and ahead of us. Left at 10.40 and got on to the M8 fairly easily. Journey was straightforward despite some slow drivers on the A93, and we met David at Braemar at about 1pm. Lunch in Fife Arms, then drove to Ballater, arriving at The Coyles around 2.30pm. Very big house. From hot in Braemar, it became chilly at Ballater, with very low cloud. Bought food, played cricket in garden, bought fish and chips and watched Test Match highlights after eating it. For my birthday David bought me three books and two films, Amy gave me a lovely key ring she’d made, and both children made me beautiful cards. Dot had trouble with the washing machine, but it made sense eventually.
Sunday, July 14
David up early to meet Chrissy (and Roger and Barb) at Edinburgh Airport. D and C arrived in Ballater just after midday, R & B half an hour later. After something to eat and various items like shopping and cricket we walked round by the river and spent some time on the stones. Very warm today. C & B joined us by river and we walked remainder of circle. Interesting meal followed by watching England beat Australia (just). All shattered. Bed quite early.

Monday, July 15
“Short walk” (Barbara Murray) round Loch Muick in pleasantly warm weather. Actual distance 7.6 miles. Struggle for Amy and for Chrissy, still battling jet lag and developing sunburn. My hay fever from yesterday disappeared. Beautiful walk, in fact. Afterwards drove to Log Cabin for drink and snack – probably a bit too far, but very nice when there, as always. Fish and chips later – I had egg and chips. Spent rest of evening talking and looking at photos, and deciding what we’ll do the rest of the week.
Tuesday, July 16
Cloudier, but warm, though with some light rain in afternoon. Drove to Balmoral, had food then visited ballroom and guest cottage. Sheltered a while from rain then climbed up path, but didn’t get far because Amy was not keen. Dot and I had extra cup of tea while Roger, Barbara, Chrissy and Oliver visited Crathie Church (Amy and David resting in car). All visited Distillery and I bought a baseball cap, then drove home by southern route. David, Oliver and I went up to Monaltrie Park to play cricket. Lovely meal, but I had violent diarrhoea afterwards. Soon got over it. Watched some Twenty Twelve followed by The Trip, with Coogan and Bryden.

Wednesday, July 17
Warm and dry. While Roger and Barbara walked Seven Bridges and the others went to the river, Dot and I went into town and bought me some binoculars (birthday present) for £170, a top and scarf for her and some meat for supper. Had drink and muffin at cafe, sitting outside! In afternoon I played cricket with Oliver, David and Roger while others went to river again, then – after a brief break – Dot and I, Roger and Barbara and Oliver climbed Craigendarroch. David met us on top, having started later and gone a long way round. We all returned by another route I recommended, despite much doubting by others. But it worked well. After supper watched more Twenty Twelve.
Thursday, July 18
Even warmer. Got up fairly early to climb Craigendarroch again, thinking I’d lost my binocular lens cap up there. But it was found by Dot in the house while Oliver and I were on the top. Nice walk though, especially during those moments when I could breathe. Later drove to Linn of Quoich, where Amy got stung by a wasp but otherwise things went well. Had late lunch at Fife Arms, then drove home, pretty much exhausted, except for usual suspects, who immediately went to the bookshop.

Friday, July 19
No reduction in warmth. Five of our number set off under blue skies at 7.55am to climb Lochnagar but had to retreat from the ridge at about 1pm, feeling exhausted under the hot sun. Meanwhile, Dot, Amy and I played storytelling using Dixit cards, then went to the little bridge off the Corgarff road to play in the stream (at least, one of us did). Idyllic spot. Managed to receive a call from Coventry about Andrew as well as a couple of texts from David to say they’d turned back. We eventually drove back to Spittal of Glen Muick to meet the Lochnagar party as they arrived, rather tired in the sun. Good achievement, though – especially by Oliver. Fish and chip supper.
Saturday, July 20
Still very warm. everyone pretty tired, so had a quieter day. Mooched around town, including Larks Gallery and cycle and sweet shop before arriving at new corner cafe for very good lunch. Later in the afternoon Barbara, Roger, David and Oliver walked out on cycle path towards Cambus O’May while I took Dot, Chrissy and Amy there by car. Very crowded, boys jumping off bridge etc, and distance was more than I had thought, so Dot, Chrissy and Amy started walking back. I found a layby where path came to road and amazingly proved to be almost exactly where the two parties met. All hot, so I gave lefts home in shifts to all except Barbara, who hurtled back on her own, setting a new world record for a cross between walking and running. In the evening had a fantastic meal at the Glen Lui. Drinks outside followed by meal in room on our own, and excellent service. It doesn’t get any better.
Sunday, July 21
Four left early (6.15am) for Edinburgh airport. Roger’s car had a flat halfway down the road, but fortunately David had a usable pump, and the tyre stayed up for the journey. Hot again, and we did very little except go to the shop for some food – on the way home as David arrived. Later emptied bottles at car park. Not much else: Froome completed win of Tour de France, England hammered Australia in Ashes and Mickelson unfortunately won the Open after Westwood led going into the final day. But he and Poulter came joint third. Dot and I switched to Murrays’ bedroom and a double bed.

Monday, July 22
A little cooler at first, but sunny and warm later. The five of us remaining hired bikes (£42) and rode down the old railway track to Cambus O’May and then Dinnnet and back – a total of about 15 miles. By the time we got back, Dot and I were quite sore and Amy was flagging (not surprisingly). She did pretty well. Three hours in all – followed by lunch at our favourite corner cafe. Watched bit of Wreck-it Ralph with Amy but kept going to sleep. Managed to keep awake during Dixit, tea and a showing of The Hobbit, but really pretty shattered by the end of the day. Not sleeping too well, for some reason.
Tuesday, July 23
The weather broke, with low cloud followed by rain and eventually a thunderstorm. By that time we had arrived back in Ballater after visiting Glen Shee cafe with a view to taking the chair lift. That proved impossible, of course, but Amy got to touch a cloud, so that was all right. Drove back via old road to Braemar, then over Crathie-Gairnshiel-Ballater road. Played games in afternoon, then Dot and Oliver and I went to La Mangiatoia to book for diiner. Got booking for 6.30 and had another excellent meal.
Wednesday, July 24
Warm weather returned, and David and the children sadly left. We had a walk in town first, a little shopping, mainly of the window variety, then lunch in our favourite corner cafe. Simultaneously two men arrived to lay vinyl in the en suites, three hours early, so we left them to it. Eventually (after our early lunch and after David left) the caretaker Mr Campbell also turned up, as did a gardener; Dot and I left them to it. We drove up to the Lecht and walked up a path to the top on the right-hand side: great views and a ridge walk with minimum effort. Back to the Log Cabin for a snack and then drove to a layby on the road to Gairnshiel, where we took a pic for a Spanish couple and read a bit, before moving into the valley by the bridge for a further read in the evening sun. Good shelter. Then home: watched Looper (one of my birthday presents from David): very clever and enjoyable film. Followed by watching last two episodes of Twenty Twelve. Still funny.
Thursday, July 25
A bit cooler and with some rain. Got up latish and notified caretaker that the vinyl-layers had left two sliding doors unsecured. He came later to fix them, while I was buying newspaper and a present for Oliver. He, his father and sister were meanwhile making good progress homeward and arrived at 2.30pm. By this time we were in the Fife Arms, having travelled to Aboyne in the hope of happening on some 3G and checking where the Boat Inn is. But it was very wet and dark east of Ballater so we headed for Braemar. Got free WiFi in the Fife Arms, so Dot caught up with her e-mails at some length.
After a snack we looked round some shops and then drove up to the duckpond, staying for a while before heading home. On the way stopped by forbidden bridge near Keilloch and saw a deer by the river’s edge, also three heron(?) in the air. In the evening met Ella and David at the Boat Inn at Aboyne and bought them supper. Ella in good spirits, but David didn’t look well, though he was bright enough. They knew many of the people there, of course, but the landlady asked me if I was local, which is a first. She had only been there three weeks.

Friday, July 26
Mainly warm and dry with some showers. Had breakfast at cafe in high street, then drove to Loch Muick, making a picnic first. Walked up the path to Capel Mounth and reached a plateau after two miles. Sat down to eat lunch and it started to rain. Black clouds, so finished quickly and retreated fast, but still got fairly wet. Not cold, though, and quite fun. Drove back to Ballater and did some packing before getting fish and chips (I had egg, bacon and chips). Then watched a DVD we’d seen before before finishing tidying up.
Saturday, July 27
Started warm and bright blue, and remained so for most of the drive south to Killington Lake, near Kendal. Dot drove to just south of Glasgow (including a brief return to Ballater when I realised I’d brought a house key with me), then I took the wheel the rest of the way, popping in to Gretna to refuel. From Ballater to Scottish border was just over 200 miles. Diverted briefly to Shap, but having found nothing of interest returned to M6 and stopped at Tebay, “the best service station in the UK” – an accolade I would not disagree with. Had meal and lingered in shop and with ice cream, then continued to Killington Lake.
Here it soon started to thunder and lightning quite enthusiastically, and eventually rain poured down extremely heavily, confining us to our room. We took advantage of a brief lull to go and get a muffin and tea, despite finding the restaurant largely flooded. Returned to room with umbrellas and extra tea bags, awaiting promised accelerated downpours overnight. This was our 45th wedding anniversary, and one of the most memorable.






