18 March 2007

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Little bit of a hiatus there. When you get home after a holiday there’s so much to do – in this case, so much still to be done as well. On Monday it was my brother’s birthday, and we spent much of the evening round at their house. My other brother, meanwhile, has had to be taken into hospital for a while – but the prognosis is not too bad.

The car has been serviced, and I’ve been to Cromer and Halesworth on training missions. And most important of all, we’ve spent a day down at Caddington with D and V and the grandchildren. Unfortunately V has not been at all well – genuine flu, I think – but the others seem OK. Grandchildren growing up fast and delightfully.

Yesterday I could have gone to Lowestoft for a Christian Writers’ meeting, but in the end I settled for catching up with some work and watching bits of rugby on TV. Ireland threw away the championship by attempting to get another try at the end and allowing Italy to get one instead. As it turned out, kicking the ball into touch would have done it.

Nice evening with friends last night, and a good view of the Cow Tower while putting the education world to rights.

Sunny and quite warm weather during most of the week has now turned to very cold, with sleet.

The picture is of an ibis, taken at Tarpon Bay, Sanibel Island, home of Doc Ford in the Randy Wayne White thrillers. This particular bird, with three friends, was hanging around the bait bin, hoping someone would forget to put the lid back on.

11 March 2007

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We’re home. Started out from Captiva just after 9.30am yesterday, had breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe and then drove to Tampa, where we reached the airport at a ridiculously early 2pm. This was entirely my fault: I’m neurotic about being late for planes. Had to wait two hours to even drop our bags off (we’d checked in on line the previous evening), then went through customs, where my rucksack was closely examined and I set the buzzer off. All well, though. We emerged at Starbucks, and I had a caramel apple cider to see what it tasted like: surprisingly good, despite its sweetness.

So we were in the departure lounge by about 4.20pm. Only two shops, so we had to spend most of our time reading. I bought another Randy Wayne White thriller. Saw our plane arrive just before 6pm, and we atarted boarding about 7.10pm. Everyone was on board by about 7.35pm, and the plane left at 7.45pm – five minutes earlier than its official schedule, and half an hour before its slot.

Dot and I had the same two seats as on the flight over, but this time there was someone in the window seat – a young Angolan guy who seemed almost as nervous as Dot. But he only disturbed us once during the flight, which seemed to go reasonably quickly, though we didn’t sleep much. We arrived at Gatwick – or as the pilot called it, Heathrow (you have to worry) at about 8.30pm (half an hour early) and it took the usual hour to get through customs and collect our luggage. Whereas in Tampa all the customs officials were allocated to the American arrivals, at Gatwick there were about a dozen for non-Europeans, and just three for us – reduced to two halfway through. Being English just doesn’t pay off anywhere.

Reached our car with no trouble, if you can call hauling three heavy bags no trouble, and left Gatwick about 9.45am (4.45am Tampa time). Traffic not too bad: we called in at the services on the A11 and had a Kentucky Fried Chicken. Reached home at 2pm, which meant we had been en route for just about 24 hours. Very tired in last stages of drive. It’s now 8.30pm and we’ve kept awake by doing lots of stuff – unpacking, washing (in Dot’s case), sorting the mail, and so on. But by the second episode of Desperate Housewives, we were both falling asleep, so we’re now going to bed.

For the sake of completeness, I should mention that I went for a walk Friday afternoon and at Tween Waters met Barb and Dot coming back from having their nails done. In the evening we went to Redfish Blu(e)fish, which was excellent again. Before leaving yesterday morning I walked down to the dock and saw a couple of manatees.

While on the dock either then or the previous day, I saw a guy wearing a teeshirt with the excellent inscription: “Be patient, and you will achieve everything. Be impatient, and you will achieve everything quicker.”

The picture (by Dot) is of the antiques shop mentioned in the previous blog.

9 March 2007

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A common event on the islands: waiting to be called for breakfast at the Lighthouse Cafe. It’s worth it.

Our tour of Sanibel yesterday started with a few backroad accesses to beaches, followed by a rather exquisite ice cream at the Dairy Queen. We didn’t actually go there for the ice cream: it was to see a golden eagle’s nest out back. We saw the eagle, but could not get a close enough picture of it. Lots of vultures too. Then proceeded to Dixie Beach Road, which was a quiet and delightful backwater down to the bay: some very expensive properties there. We continued down a narrow lane which ran right alongside the bay and took a few pictures: beautiful spot – almost nobody around, bay on one side and wildlife refuge on the other.

Back on Periwinkle Way we called at an Antiques Shop, which is the American name for all kinds of bric a brac and curios. Fascinating: even I, a determined non-shopper, didn’t mind being in there. Following this we ventured down Tarpon Bay Road to the marina and by chance (to make up the numbers) went on a trip round the bay. This turned out to be a surprisingly cool experience, and Dot and Barb accepted offered blankets! Back on shore it was pretty warm again, and there was a nice little shop…

In the evening we went to Dolce Vita again. Probably the best food on the island, but quite rich, as were most of the patrons. Piano accompaniment.

Played bridge, but we were all rather tired, and so abandoned it quite soon.

This morning felt a bit queasy, so had an early bath. Others didn’t sleep well, so it was after 9.30 before we walked up the beach and round to Starbucks for breakfast. I had a pomegranate frappucino, which also includes peach juice and green tea. Delicious. Chocolate chip cookie too. Consumed it all on the dock: Pine Island Sound dead calm. Manatees around, but haven’t seen dolphins for a while.

Back at the house worked out what we’d bought for Customs purposes: could have been worse, and well within limit. Did a little bit of packing while Dot and Barb went on to beach. Now as I write they are off on to Sanibel to have their nails done and to do a little shopping. Our last day in Florida!

8 March 2007

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Well, Traders was a mistake. None of us was really hungry: apart from Roger, we had two starter plates, and they proved far too much. We had to slink out rather quickly.The wine was good though, as was the film – Walk the Line – biography of Johnny Cash. Up rather late this morning. Dot has gone up to the post office with Barbara, after which we shall embark on a tour of some of the lesser known parts of Sanibel. Weather is warm and bright.

The picture (by Dot) is of the exit from Sunset Captiva (where we’re staying) on to the beach.

7 March 2007

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In the evening yesterday we paid our second visit to Redfish Blu(e)fish. Good food, wine even better. We were almost home when Barb realised she’d left her glasses on the table, so we returned to fetch them. Total additional time probably 40 minutes! Back home we watched Inside Man, which seemed really good, though I dozed off a couple of times, out of tiredness rather than boredom.

Today we were out of the house by 9.30 and in the Sanibel shopping area by 10. I bought a new bag to carry all the extra stuff we’ve bought, plus present for Phil, whose birthday is on Monday. Then back to Captiva for lunch at the Green Flash – outdoors, to the accompaniment of water sprays that kept drifting over us. Archetypal American waitress.

After lunch we went kayaking for a couple of hours over to Buck Key and into its beautiful little lagoon. In Pine Island Sound the wind got up a little but it was still no problem. This evening we are having an unusually late meal at Traders, so watching part of a film first.

Weather warmer again. Blue skies.

Picture by Dot is of birds in the Ding Darling wildlife refuge.

6 March 2007

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Just returned from two hours sailing in Pine Island Sound on board the Adventure, captained by Jorge, from Chile. Beautiful day: some breeze, but not too much. No sign of fish, surprisingly in view of what you can often see from the shore, but plenty of entertainment from Jorge, who had views on a wide variety of things, from Canadian government to the amount of food you get in certain restaurants here. When he discovered I was a writer he came up with a couple of ideas for my next column. Hmmm…

The Sound is only about five feet deep at its maximum, and is over two miles wide. Jorge suggested that if we sank, we could walk ashore. The more vertically challenged among us were not sure about this, but some found it comforting.

The picture was taken at the end of the voyage by Jorge, using Dot’s camera.

Earlier, while I took a while to get up (hadn’t been feeling too well – maybe very mild sunstroke from tennis, or a touch of dodgy food), Dot and Barb went over to Sanibel for a little shopping. When I eventually stirred, I finished writing my page for next week.

Last night after bridge we watched The Luzhin Defence, a film about a chess grandmaster who is one pawn short of a set. No, that’s a metaphor. The chess references, of which there were many, were very accurate, though there is no way a world championship would be settled by a single game, of course. Superbly acted by all.

5 March 2007

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In the end we skipped the kayaking for the time being, and played tennis instead. I was awful. I continue to be awful. I played again today with Roger and lost again despite his trying to help me. On Saturday evening we watched Being Julia – great performance by Annette Bening.

Yesterday it continued cooler, but it was still quite pleasant. We had brunch at the Lighthouse Cafe, then bought a couple of books and called in at the video store. On to a leisurely drive through the Nature Reserve, hunting for alligators. We saw a huge variety of birds and a few raccoons, but we had just about given up on the alligators when I saw a baby one in a creek near the exit. No sign of the mother.

Back at home played tennis (still awful) then home for food and two excellent films: The Merchant of Venice (superb performances from Al Pacino and Lynn Collins) and Keeping Mum (a surprisingly good comedy with Kirstin Scott Thomas and Rowan Atkinson, among others).

Today has been much cooler, which is to say the equivalent of a very acceptable English summer’s day. Barb and Dot are just back from Naples, where they bought a bundle of clothes. I walked up to the post office, back along the beach and over to the dock. Wind has shifted to the north, and there were crows on the dock. Haven’t seen them before. Very clear – Pine Island was very sharp. No sign of manatees, which had been mating yesterday, we think. Lots of action – very unusual. Only happens once every two years.

Now the other three have gone out to buy desserts from the Bubble Room. I didn’t feel much like going to a proper restaurant, and they wouldn’t go without me.

It’s much noisier now in Sunset Captiva – more families have come down for the March break, whatever that is.

The picture is Dot’s view of the Lady Chadwick, a boat that leaves the quay almost opposite us and promises dolphin sightings. The other evening it overshot its berth to view a dolphin opposite our dock. Could it have been the only one they’d seen?

3 March 2007

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This is Dot on the deck leading off our bedroom. I think hornets may be building a nest there.

In the end the journey to Naples wasn’t too bad, though we were stuck on Periwinkle Way for a long time. Happily, I took a book! We arrived at the theatre nearly an hour and a half early: great consternation because there was no food on sale, and Dot and Barb in particular were hungry. They had to make do with coffee, drunk outside in a courtyard. Lovely setting.

Riverdance was superb – quite stunning in several different ways. The dancing itself was amazing, of course, but I was particularly impressed by the small group of musicians, including a violinist and drummer who were out of this world.

Back in the car by 10.20, we stopped for succour at a filling station: cake and chocolates. Home before midnight.

On the way to Naples, on Highway 41, we were overtaken by a motor cycle. A mile or so further on we found the bike wrecked and the young rider lying on the ground: he had clearly hit a car. He didn’t look at all good, though he wasn’t dead. The difference a few minutes can make…

Yesterday was fairly quiet. Did a bit of grocery shopping with Barb (Roger was painting) and then called at Bowman’s beach on Sanibel. Lovely approach paths through trees and bushes, and a lagoon just behind the sand. The beach itself was quite crowded, though the sea was very perky, and there was intermittent low cloud. Certainly picturesque.

Later went to the dock again. Several manatee about. We booked a trip on a sailing boat for Tuesday.

Evening meal at Dolce Vita, where the ambience was sophisticated, more like a city restaurant, with live music. The food was first class, as was the service. Really good meal. Home by about 8.30 and watched Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, which I found irritating and pretentious. No likeable characters and not much coherence either.

Now Dot and Barbara are up at the pool. Roger has just finished his portrait of Dot – wonderful – and there is the prospect of kayaking this afternoon, though I’m a bit worried about my stomach.

1 March 2007

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Just a quickie. A relatively quiet day yesterday for Roger and me, while Dot and Barbara went on to Sanibel to do some shopping and have their nails polished. I did some reading and writing, including postcards, and Roger worked on his portrait of Dot. In the evening (well, 5pm) we walked up to the Mucky Duck for dinner. I had shrimps in beer batter and chips. Watched the Leonard Cohen film, I’m Your Man, which is much better than I thought it would be. Some excellent versions of lesser known songs, as well as better known ones. Martha Wainwright great on Traitor.

Today we had lunch at Traders, which was excellent, and in a moment we will be leaving for Naples and a performance of Riverdance. We’re expecting bad traffic and so starting out at 4pm for an 8pm performance. Normal travel time, one and a half hours. Before lunch I bought some shoes – a combination of sandals and trainers – and I have just walked up to the post office to buy stamps, stopping off at the dock on the way back. One dolphin, one manatee, countless pelicans. Strongish breeze from the south-west, but temperature 86F.

Picture is of the house we’re staying in, with our hosts. By Dot.

27 February 2007

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Picture by our waitress at Tommy Bahama’s yesterday in Naples, where I outraged Barb by ordering a cheeseburger instead of something cultured. However, I did have a Cosmo martini, and Dot had a Coconut Cloud (speciality of the house, with their own rum); so that was all right. Using the phrase “all right” rather loosely.

Afterwards Barb and Dot went shopping, and Roger and I visited about six galleries. Some really excellent pictures, especially in the Galerie du Soleil, where they were showing pictures from Naples, Italy, in some kind of exchange deal. Stunning portraits.

Journey to and from Naples was afflicted by heavy traffic. On the way there, through Fort Myers Beach – a kind of sub-tropical Great Yarmouth – it was foggy, depriving us of what we were assured were splendid views. Naples itself was very refined, or upscale, as they say over here.

Today we had breakfast at the Lighthouse cafe again, then went to see the actual lighthouse, which is not much aesthetically, but nicely placed opposite an osprey’s nest. And round the corner is the pier where quite a large number of people were fishing. Surprisingly peaceful, despite the usual suspects – pelicans – putting in an appearance. Saw dolphins again.

On the way back we called at the video shop, and while we were inside, there was a thunderstorm. Back on Captiva it was dry. Dot and I went to the post office, then Starbuck’s, then bought one or two cards and other items at the Bubble Room emporium. Barb and Roger saw manatees at the dock, but by the time Dot and I arrived, they had mysteriously disappeared. The manatees, that is.

Meanwhile a new fridge was installed. We had a delicatessen supper on the deck, then played bridge, followed by a film – Calendar Girls.