We have just completed a week in Normandy, and this might be considered to be the high point: Dot and Dave on one of the Etretat pinnacles reached by a narrow path from the main cliff. Julia and I declined the challenge as we both have a desire to jump off high things. The exposure was if anything worse than it looks here.
Etretat is a stunning little town north of Le Havre, reached across the Pont de Normandie. Its main features of course are the cliff formations – pinnacles and arches. We climbed the cliffs on both sides after having a coffee (tea), followed by lunch in a rather lovely restaurant, Des Deux Augustins, in the main street. I took the opportunity to have moules et frites. Actually, Dot declined the second climb because she was feeling a bit under the weather. Weather was excellent – warm but not hot enough to make the climb uncomfortable.
That was on Tuesday. We had arrived on Friday, after a long journey that featured a visit to hospital (my six-monthly check: blood test not improved) and a nightmare drive down the M11 through rain that was sheeting down. It was the same rain that caused huge floods in the west, especially Gloucesterhire, and I was quite surprised we kept going. In Kent things were much improved: warmer and dry. We stopped at services on the M20 near Maidstone before arriving early at the Tunnel. Caught a train about an hour before scheduled, and the journey through France was quite relaxing. Stopped at the Aire de la Baie de Somme for a while and reached Villers sur mer at around 8.45pm. Dave and Julia were staying in the top apartment, and we were on the ground floor, which had a garden. Very comfortable. Dave delivered croissants (sometimes a demi-baguette) every morning between 8.30 and 9.
On the Saturday we walked into town and bought provisions plus three bottles of cider, and then returned for lunch at our table on the lawn. After lunch went to Beuvron en Auge (l’un des plus belles villes de France) and did a walk of about 3.5 miles up a hill to a church and back. In town had crepes flambes and cider as rain begam to pour down. Dave and I went to look at model trains while the women shopped: Dot bought €45 necklace – anniversary present. Julia cooked evening meal.
Sunday was dry and pretty warm. In the morning we drove into Pont l’Eveque for a traditional market. Also a flea market (Les Puces), where Dot bought a watch for €6. Followed this with coffee (tea) at a pavement cafe and lunch at home on the lawn. In the afternoon we drove to Dives sur mer, where we parked and walked into Cabourg, along the river and then the prom. Took in the Grand Hotel, where there was an excellent exhibition, and Dupont’s cafe, where I had a truly mouth-watering cake which included elements of dark chocolate and cherries. Walked up and down main street, and Julia bought a white anorak. In the evening we walked into town and had a lovely meal at Le Mermoz. Waiter, duck and sunset all outstanding.
On Monday it rained all day, and our intended visit to Etretat was abandoned. Instead we walked into town to buy lunch between drops of rain and in the afternoon Dot and I drove on our own to Caen to see the Memorial (Peace Museum). Not an easy journey, especially along the Peripherique. Bad at first – packed with cars and people; we had to park in a field, and Dot was not feeling well. Still, we persevered – at least, Dot did – and we eventually got tickets for the tour and a couple of films, both of which were quite good, though the one called “Hope” was anything but. Lots there – maybe too much – but to our generation nothing really came as a surprise. I was struck by a big picture of two resistance workers hanging: their faces looked almost angelic, whereas pictures of collaborators had something empty about them. Maybe we were projecting our feelings… Julia cooked in the evening.
Tuesday we did manage Etretat, and on Wednesday it was Honfleur.We took the green bus from just up the road, which went along the coast, then dipped inland. My stomach was feeling gassy, but shortly after arrival we had mint tea at a pavement cafe which seemed to settle it completely: the tea had actual mint in it and was delicious. Walked around the town a bit and then had lunch – a €23 four-courser. Mine was delicious – foie gras, steak, cheese, sorbet – but unfortunately Julia’s was very disappointing, and everyone who had fish (ie everyone but me) agreed that the sauce was excessive. Visited one or two exhibitions afterwards and walked up into the old town (actually it’s all old) away from the harbour,calling at a few exhibitions and shops. Lovely place. Julia on unsuccessful quest for licorice ice cream, which was supposed to be sold by the harbour. Eventually got the bus back at about 6 and changed at Deauville.
Today (Thursday) we left about 10 for an easy journey back up to Calais, stopping again at the Somme. Got train at Calais an hour early ands because the M25 was heavily roadworked, took the Blackwall Tunnel, which worked out well. However, on the M11 heavy rain returned to welcome us back. Stopped at services, then took a roundabout route via Saffron Walden. Traffic very heavy towards Elvedon, so detoured again via Brandon. Extremely tired at home. Wrote column, then had diarrhoea and shaking. Hot bath helped a bit: went to bed very early.