Tag Archives: normandy

A few days in Normandy

Stylish Dot on Villers beach

Not much has changed: it’s still raining. It’s like living under a giant sponge: you can feel the weight of it, and now it’s coming through the roof. Since my last post, however, we have been to France, where things were much different: they spoke French. It was still raining, though.

Despite that, we had plenty of memorable moments and a few dry ones. The journey both ways was extremely straightforward despite my habitual fears about what might go wrong. Eurotunnel’s system is little short of miraculous. You drive up to a machine that knows who you are and welcomes you. You then touch the screen to choose a train– which for us in both cases was scheduled at least an hour earlier than the one we booked for. It’s a bit slow going through customs, but the train is quite quick, and getting out of it even quicker.

Stayed with Julia and Dave at their second apartment  in Villers sur Mer on the Normandy coast. Total drive from Norwich just over 370 miles. Dot drove to Folkestone through a lot of rain (quelle surprise), and I drove the rest. We left Norwich about 1.30pm after I had led the service at St Augustine’s, and arrived at Villers, following Dave’s impeccable instructions, just before night fell. No e-mail reception throughout holiday.

On arrival I fell over in the car park – backwards over one of those metal things – and injured my arm rather painfully, though I could still do most things without any trouble. Not sure what it is (muscle tear?) but I now have extensive bruising on the inside of the arm near the elbow.

On the Monday we walked into town and looked at a historical exhibition of illustrated cards and letters and had coffee at a cafe. Back at the apartment we had lunch in the garden (the only time we were able to do this), and in the afternoon did a hilly walk round the “back of Villers”, initially past a parked vehicle containing a circus lion. Nearly six miles in all, and topped off with an ice cream back in town, followed by an evening meal with the Evetts. Cloudy day, but mainly dry. Yes, dry.

On the cliffs at Etretat

Tuesday was also mainly dry, though cloudy. Dave drove us to Etretat via le Pont de Tancarville, which is cheaper than le Pont de Normandie, but not so pretty. Etretat was wonderful, though: amazing cliffs. Had lunch in different restaurant from last time: moules marinieres et frites and some wonderful cidre brut. Then on to Fecamp, where we visited the Benedictine palace/distillery, with free sample at end: I had Benedictine and Brandy cocktail, or B & B, as it’s sometimes known, followed by a swift crepe. Walked about three miles altogether. Salady meal with the Evetts in evening.

The castle at Falaise

Started cloudy on Wednesday, with rain threatening. Bit of rain later, but also some sun. Drove to Cambremer (i.e. Dave drove: my car was in garage throughout), where we stopped for coffee, and Dot bought me a bracelet. Village is known for its scarecrows. Then on to Falaise, where we had lunch at a lovely restaurant in town (omelette and frites) before visiting William the Conqueror’s amazing castle and finding out a lot more about him than I knew. There was an audio tour with chess featured at the outset as symbolic of the court system, and much more besides. Technology was a bit intermittent, but it was interesting hearing about it all from the French side.

Drove back through Breuvons en Auge but resisted the famous crepes as we were eating a proper meal with Dave and Julia when we got back.

Thursday was my birthday – and for the third year running I was not at home. I was 67, and it was the worst day of the holiday for weather. We took the bus to Honfleur and had a nice birthday meal in a restaurant there, sitting next to the guy who created fruits de mer. Entertaining, but I had duck. It started raining while we were eating, and didn’t stop. Afterwards we wondered round the harbour, and Dot bought a top, then Dave and I walked up by the harbour and towards the sea, then through the Garden of Personalities (busts of Francoise Sagain and others) while Dot and Julia continued shopping.

Julia and Dot get down to some serious wildflower identification at Cabourg

Next day was Friday the 13th, but despite that it was a much better day – dry till evening. Went into Villers in the morning, and Dave and I had a brief walk in a muddy wood (part). Dot bought a waterproof jacket in the market and we got some wonderful Normandy pâté, which we had for lunch. In the afternoon we drove to Cabourg, where we had a lovely walk along the spit of land at the side of the estuary – mainly dunes featuring wildflowers that fascinated Julia and Dot. They had a book.

Then back to the prom, which we walked down to the Grand Hotel, then Duponts for tea and cake. In all we walked about 8½ miles during the day. Seafood meal with Dave and Julia in the evening to round off the holiday.

Wrote no poetry in France for some reason, but did finish off a song that I’m rather pleased with, called I feel like I’m falling apart.

The journey back on Saturday was smooth. We stopped again at the Aire de la Baie de Somme, which was very busy. Got to the tunnel about 90 minutes early, but were put on a train immediately. As we emerged into England, there was a massive downpour, and the first miles up the M20 were very difficult. We stopped at Maidstone services, but then I continued driving all the way home (Julia had made us sandwiches). Strangely, didn’t feel tired until the next day.

Got home to find e-mail from Stuart warning that the church hall wasn’t finished and we probably wouldn’t be able to have service.Called the cleaner, Sophie, who wasn’t quite so alarmist, and when we eventually got there on Sunday morning, it was fine, though a bit smokey. Howard had been there earlier and put the chairs out. The radiators weren’t complete, but it looks good. Ruth led, and I preached a sermon I’d written before we went on holiday. Went surprisingly well. The rest of the day we gradually got back to normal.

Today I walked into town to pay in some money for St Augustine’s, and got fairly wet. Dot painted a wall in the bedroom, then noticed a damp patch on the ceiling in the living room. So in a brief respite from the rain we got out the ladder and I climbed up to the top gutter to remove some plant and earth debris there. Little bit precarious, but I didn’t look down. Will have to wait and see if it’s worked.

 

 

as at 26 July 2007

We have just completed a week in Normandy, and this might be considered to be the high point: Dot and Dave on one of the Etretat pinnacles reached by a narrow path from the main cliff. Julia and I declined the challenge as we both have a desire to jump off high things. The exposure was if anything worse than it looks here.

Etretat is a stunning little town north of Le Havre, reached across the Pont de Normandie. Its main features of course are the cliff formations – pinnacles and arches. We climbed the cliffs on both sides after having a coffee (tea), followed by lunch in a rather lovely restaurant, Des Deux Augustins, in the main street. I took the opportunity to have moules et frites. Actually, Dot declined the second climb because she was feeling a bit under the weather. Weather was excellent – warm but not hot enough to make the climb uncomfortable.

That was on Tuesday. We had arrived on Friday, after a long journey that featured a visit to hospital (my six-monthly check: blood test not improved) and a nightmare drive down the M11 through rain that was sheeting down. It was the same rain that caused huge floods in the west, especially Gloucesterhire, and I was quite surprised we kept going. In Kent things were much improved: warmer and dry. We stopped at services on the M20 near Maidstone before arriving early at the Tunnel. Caught a train about an hour before scheduled, and the journey through France was quite relaxing. Stopped at the Aire de la Baie de Somme for a while and reached Villers sur mer at around 8.45pm. Dave and Julia were staying in the top apartment, and we were on the ground floor, which had a garden. Very comfortable. Dave delivered croissants (sometimes a demi-baguette) every morning between 8.30 and 9.

On the Saturday we walked into town and bought provisions plus three bottles of cider, and then returned for lunch at our table on the lawn. After lunch went to Beuvron en Auge (l’un des plus belles villes de France) and did a walk of about 3.5 miles up a hill to a church and back. In town had crepes flambes and cider as rain begam to pour down. Dave and I went to look at model trains while the women shopped: Dot bought €45 necklace – anniversary present. Julia cooked evening meal.

Sunday was dry and pretty warm. In the morning we drove into Pont l’Eveque for a traditional market. Also a flea market (Les Puces), where Dot bought a watch for €6. Followed this with coffee (tea) at a pavement cafe and lunch at home on the lawn. In the afternoon we drove to Dives sur mer, where we parked and walked into Cabourg, along the river and then the prom. Took in the Grand Hotel, where there was an excellent exhibition, and Dupont’s cafe, where I had a truly mouth-watering cake which included elements of dark chocolate and cherries. Walked up and down main street, and Julia bought a white anorak. In the evening we walked into town and had a lovely meal at Le Mermoz. Waiter, duck and sunset all outstanding.

On Monday it rained all day, and our intended visit to Etretat was abandoned. Instead we walked into town to buy lunch between drops of rain and in the afternoon Dot and I drove on our own to Caen to see the Memorial (Peace Museum). Not an easy journey, especially along the Peripherique. Bad at first – packed with cars and people; we had to park in a field, and Dot was not feeling well. Still, we persevered – at least, Dot did – and we eventually got tickets for the tour and a couple of films, both of which were quite good, though the one called “Hope” was anything but. Lots there – maybe too much – but to our generation nothing really came as a surprise. I was struck by a big picture of two resistance workers hanging: their faces looked almost angelic, whereas pictures of collaborators had something empty about them. Maybe we were projecting our feelings… Julia cooked in the evening.

Tuesday we did manage Etretat, and on Wednesday it was Honfleur.We took the green bus from just up the road, which went along the coast, then dipped inland. My stomach was feeling gassy, but shortly after arrival we had mint tea at a pavement cafe which seemed to settle it completely: the tea had actual mint in it and was delicious. Walked around the town a bit and then had lunch – a €23 four-courser. Mine was delicious – foie gras, steak, cheese, sorbet – but unfortunately Julia’s was very disappointing, and everyone who had fish (ie everyone but me) agreed that the sauce was excessive. Visited one or two exhibitions afterwards and walked up into the old town (actually it’s all old) away from the harbour,calling at a few exhibitions and shops. Lovely place. Julia on unsuccessful quest for licorice ice cream, which was supposed to be sold by the harbour. Eventually got the bus back at about 6 and changed at Deauville.

Today (Thursday) we left about 10 for an easy journey back up to Calais, stopping again at the Somme. Got train at Calais an hour early ands because the M25 was heavily roadworked, took the Blackwall Tunnel, which worked out well. However, on the M11 heavy rain returned to welcome us back. Stopped at services, then took a roundabout route via Saffron Walden. Traffic very heavy towards Elvedon, so detoured again via Brandon. Extremely tired at home. Wrote column, then had diarrhoea and shaking. Hot bath helped a bit: went to bed very early.